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Ethnology of Manihiki and Rakahanga

Figure 38. Twilled plaiting of kete ngahengahe. a, braided rim commencement turned over in position for plaiting with all wefts directed toward right; upper elements (4′) form dextrals and lower elements (4) will supply sinistrals. b, technical twilled-two stroke; commencing on left, number of upper laying elements raised with right hand; lower element on left (4) turned to left with left hand, and next lower element to right (5) also turned to left; left upper weft (4′) dropped over the requir…

Figure 38. Twilled plaiting of kete ngahengahe. a, braided rim commencement turned over in position for plaiting with all wefts directed toward right; upper elements (4′) form dextrals and lower elements (4) will supply sinistrals. b, technical twilled-two stroke; commencing on left, number of upper laying elements raised with right hand; lower element on left (4) turned to left with left hand, and next lower element to right (5) also turned to left; left upper weft (4′) dropped over the required two, and left down; next lower element (6) turned to left and next upper element (5′) dropped over it from right hand and left down; similarly, upper weft (6′) dropped over lower weft (7) and so plaiting moves to right by successively turning lower weft to left and dropping upper weft over it; once commencement made, twilled-two proceeds automatically. c, when a sufficient depth has been secured, two pairs of dextrals raised with intervening pair left down; thus in last movement, two pairs (1′, 2′, 5′, 6′) were kept raised and intervening pair (3′, 4′) left down; sinistral weft (6) was then bent into shed prepared; in next movement in order to continue horizontal row of twill, upper or far numbers of raised pairs (1′, 5′) will be dropped and recumbent wefts below or on near side of raised wefts (3′, 7′) raised to complete raised pairs; the next sinistral (7) will be bent into shed and twilled-two technique thus continued; result as shown on surface is two horizontal rows of twilled-two dextrals and one intervening row of twilled-two sinistrals; horizontal twilled-twos continued for full length of braid; ends of braid then brought together and free wefts from each end plaited in same twill so as to close space (tutaki).

Figure 38. Twilled plaiting of kete ngahengahe. a, braided rim commencement turned over in position for plaiting with all wefts directed toward right; upper elements (4′) form dextrals and lower elements (4) will supply sinistrals. b, technical twilled-two stroke; commencing on left, number of upper laying elements raised with right hand; lower element on left (4) turned to left with left hand, and next lower element to right (5) also turned to left; left upper weft (4′) dropped over the required two, and left down; next lower element (6) turned to left and next upper element (5′) dropped over it from right hand and left down; similarly, upper weft (6′) dropped over lower weft (7) and so plaiting moves to right by successively turning lower weft to left and dropping upper weft over it; once commencement made, twilled-two proceeds automatically. c, when a sufficient depth has been secured, two pairs of dextrals raised with intervening pair left down; thus in last movement, two pairs (1′, 2′, 5′, 6′) were kept raised and intervening pair (3′, 4′) left down; sinistral weft (6) was then bent into shed prepared; in next movement in order to continue horizontal row of twill, upper or far numbers of raised pairs (1′, 5′) will be dropped and recumbent wefts below or on near side of raised wefts (3′, 7′) raised to complete raised pairs; the next sinistral (7) will be bent into shed and twilled-two technique thus continued; result as shown on surface is two horizontal rows of twilled-two dextrals and one intervening row of twilled-two sinistrals; horizontal twilled-twos continued for full length of braid; ends of braid then brought together and free wefts from each end plaited in same twill so as to close space (tutaki).