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The Pa Maori

Okoki Pa

Okoki Pa

This is one of the famous forts of the Taranaki district, and is said to be a very old one. A tradition is extant that it was formed by the earliest native settlers in these parts. All these forts in the Urenui district herein described were occupied for generations past by members of the Ngati-Mutunga clan. Okoki was occupied as late as the 'twenties' of last century, for we know that a portion of the above clan was living there in 1822, when the Motunui fight occurred in that vicinity. Some interesting notes on this old stronghold may be found in The History and Traditions of the Taranaki page 233 Fig. 63—Okoki Pa at Urenui, Taranaki. (See p. 234.) Miss E. Richardson page 234Coast. According to that work the chiefs of Okoki in 1821 were Rangi-wahia, Whakapaki, Te Awa-roa and Koromiko. Okoki is a stronghold of much interest on account of its antiquity, its well preserved works and picturesque appearance. It is situated about N.E. by E. from the township of Urenui, on the right bank of the river of that name. It is a ridge fort, the ridge lying about S.E. by N.W. The former end falls sharply to a bend in the river, the latter to a low saddle. The whole eastern face of the ridge is a very steep bluff, at the base of which flows the river. The fortified area is now almost entirely bush clad, the principal timber being rewarewa or honeysuckle, trees of which are seen up to 2 ft. in diameter at 2 ft. from the ground line. These are growing on the flat summit of the fort and must have so grown since the place was deserted probably about 80 years ago. On this summit area are seen several old posts of puriri, hollow but still showing much sound wood, that were probably supports of pataka or elevated storage huts. These are the only remains of woodwork pertaining to former occupation now surviving. The puriri (Vitex lucens) is a very durable timber. See Fig. 63, p. 233.

Commencing at the S.E. end we advance up a narrow spur to find, at a spot where the spur widens out abruptly, an outer defence similar to the first one encountered at Otumoana. A fosse has been excavated half way across the narrow part of the spur. Doubtless the entrance here was by way of the unexcavated part of the spur, which would be defended by a stockade that would be continued along the brow of the fosse and round both sides of A area on the top of the scarp. Such stockades would certainly be erected along the brows of all scarps shown on the plan, as also on the brow lines of the fosses. It is also probable that lines of stockades divided E area and the long terraces into various sub-divisions.

A area is 55 yards long, its inner end being marked by a strong defence containing some unusual features. The B, C fosse is 16 ft. wide near B and narrows to 10 ft. as it advances. Its inner scarp is a perpendicular wall of 26 ft. in its central part, lessening toward B and C in sympathy with the natural form of the spur. A large section of the spur has been here excavated in order to form this huge scarp. The outer scarp of the fosse is perpendicular and 5 ft. to 6 ft. in height. At a point 30 yds. from the western end of this fosse is a sudden rise of over 3 ft. in the level of the trench floor. This continues for 12 yds., and then comes a drop of 4 ft. thus leaving a raised block area 4 ft. high and 36 ft. in length in the fosse. Along the top of the outer scarp for the length of this raised area, extends a low earthen wall, evidently protective in design. The sub-area marked L, page 235and contained by a dotted line, is raised some feet above the level of A area, and was probably bounded by a stockade as an additional bar to the advance of an enemy up the ridge. East of the central block the fosse continues and angles off to C. It is possible that this central block of 12 yds. was not excavated on account of the presence of somewhat hard sandstone. This fort was not so well explored as it should have been, owing to heavy rains, which have a demoralising effect on note books and note makers.

The eastern part of the fosse is 14 yds. long and carries an outer scarp of 8 ft. The passage or means of communication between A and D areas was not observed, but this defence must have been practically impregnable to a force armed with native weapons.

To reach area D means a rough scramble up the precipitous scarp, a process much assisted, however, by the forest growth, to which the modern escalader can cling. Area D perched far above A is a perfectly flat terrace measuring 19 yds. by 25 yds. The steep sides of these areas have assuredly been artificial scarps surmounted by stockades, but all are now covered with dense forest growth. Thirty feet below the level of D area is a terrace 16 ft. and upwards in width, extending from B past D area and on under E area to terminate at a perpendicular cliff at the projecting point O. The M, N line of defence is a perpendicular scarp 10 ft. in height, and on ascending this the observer finds himself on the fine level expanse marked E, the highest part of the fort. It is 165 yds. in length and 97 yds. wide at its widest part. From this fine residential area the inhabitants enjoyed a delightful view of forest, mountain, plain and ocean, such a view as Taranaki alone can boast of. With its terraces, scarps, fosses, stockades and commanding situation, Okoki must have been a remarkably picturesque stronghold when the descendants of Mutunga were in residence. This formerly busy area is silent now, and covered with a forest growth of rewarewa, kohe, mamaku, mapau, hangehange, kawakawa, Cordyline, etc. Rewarewa trees of 18 inches in diameter are fairly numerous, and one double growth is 8 ft. in circumference at 3 ft. from the ground.

A P is a narrow sunk way, an excavated passage 4 ft. wide and from 4 ft. to 8 ft. deep by means of which access was gained to the summit area from Q terrace. The stockade along the brow would extend across this space while the aperture below it would be blocked by some form of gate or bars. Terrace Q is a fine residential area, 33 ft. wide where the subway leaves it, and as much as 40 ft. at some parts. The inner scarp of this terrace is 10 ft. high and very steep, the addition of a 10 ft. stockade on its crest would render it a very formidable defence. The outer scarp of Q terrace, the drop to terrace page 236R, is from 16 ft. to 50 ft. and also very steep, in parts perpendicular. From these fine residential terraces the view westward across the Motunui plain to the ocean beyond is a very fine one. That plain of Motunui was the scene of a fight in 1822, when the Okoki folk joined other clans of the Ngati-Awa tribe and there defeated an invading force from the Waikato district. On the bank of the Man-gatiti stream, near the western side of Okoki, stands a titoki tree on which bodies of the slain invaders were hung prior to being cooked and eaten.

In the narrow subway leading from terrace Q to the summit is growing a rewarewa tree (Knightia excelsa) 2 ft. in diameter.

All the eastern face of the pa is a steep bluff, difficult to ascend when clear of timber growth, easily defended, and lacking terraces. The rounded extremity of the summit area at S presents a scarp that has been 16 ft. or 18 ft. in height, but is now much eroded. At the base of this scarp is a wide fosse much clogged with detrital matter, with a wall outside it of 4 ft. to 5 ft. in height. The Q terrace formation runs into the western end of this fosse, while the eastern end emerges at the brow of a precipitous bluff. Crossing the wall or parapet north of this trench we find a steep drop of 26 ft., this imposing scarp resembling the B, C line of defence at the other end of the fort. On the eastern side of this part is a short terrace about 8 ft. wide, and the hillside has been cut away to form a precipitous scarp of nearly 30 ft. The fosse marked G is 25 ft. wide, an unusually wide one, with an outer wall scarp of 9 ft. Its eastern end gives upon a precipitous drop of 30 ft. into a huge hole in the hillside, which hole may be an artificial excavation; it is about 50 ft. wide. Fosse G is 24 yds. long but at the western side of the ridge it has not been cut through, hence it does not impinge upon the J, R terrace. A causeway composed of the original formation has been left at the western end of the fosse, as shown on the plan. This causeway is 10 ft. wide and 7 ft. above the bottom of the fosse, to which it presents a wall of that height. Its outer or western side shows a steep scarp drop of 16 ft. to 18 ft. to the terrace below. This raised causeway form of connection between two fortified areas of a fort is occasionally seen, and would unquestionably be protected by stockade lines and strong barriers. Thus when, at night, all entrance passages were blocked, each division of such a fort as Okoki was really a stronghold in itself.

H area is much lower than S and the ridge is now falling to the saddle north of I. H is a level terrace area with a 5 ft. parapet on its outer or northern limit, and steep scarps on its eastern and western flanks. Its outer scarp is 16 ft., at the base of which is a fosse now page 23710 ft. wide at the bottom and presenting a counter scarp of 8 ft. Ascending the latter lands us on I area, the outermost fortified part of Okoki at its northern end. This area is but 14 yds. in length, with a steep fall away on both flanks. The fosse of K, J deepens abruptly at its western end and has an outer wall which is a horn or continuation of I area level. The fosse at the northern end of I area, is 8 ft. wide across the bottom, with an inner scarp of 10 ft.; counter scarp 6 ft., and this is the outermost defence. The cross section sketch of these northern defences makes the system clear, and also shows how the scarp brows have eroded, more especially on the upper part of the ridge.

Outside the I area the ridge top seems to have been levelled for some distance, after which it descends to form a saddle, to rise again further on.

Just below the level of the western end of the K, J ditch commences a terrace that runs under H and G, for 45 yds., at which point it resolves itself into an upward sloping passage 10 ft. wide, with a rampart on its outer side. This ascent leads us to terrace R which lies 14 ft. higher than the preceding terrace. Here we note a high steep scarp running up to Q terrace on our left. R terrace extends along the western hill face, some 50 ft. below the Q terrace level, and preserving a width of about 40 ft, until we reach the small area marked T. Here the level drops 6 ft., continues so for 12 yds., then rises 12 ft. by a steep scarp to a flat area (U) as shown on plan. Twenty yards then brings us to the end of this terrace system, which runs out at a steep cliff overlooking the river. But along the inner line of this small final area, skirting the base of the lofty and steep scarp under Q terrace, a curious passage or sunk way has been formed. This commences as a narrow deep trench 4 ft. wide and 7 yds. long, then widens out to a deeply excavated space 18 to 20 ft. wide and 8 ft. deep. The purport of this singular fosse is by no means clear, it isolates the elevated area U, but only from the steep bluff, from which side no attack could be expected or delivered by an enemy assaulting the fort.

There are some very interesting features connected with this fort, and it would repay further study. The high precipitous scarp under Q terrace betrays no sign of a former means of access from the lower terrace. Such may have become eroded past recognition, or Q area may have been entered from H by way of the causeway at the western end of fosse G. Such problems are worthy of study on the ground, but abominable weather prevented a long examination.

page 238

On the level tihi or summit area are many store pits of the rua kopiha type about 8 ft. deep, with dome shaped roofs, the descent into these being of the usual 'well mouth' kind. In some are seen steps of solid earth whereby to descend or ascend. Some rows of pits are connected by small passage ways through an intervening wall of 30 inches or so in thickness. These pits are of circular form, and some have a raised ledge or banquette round them, the use of which is not clear. The different forms of storage pits used in different districts present quite an interesting study.

There are many other old forts in this district that would repay examination, as also many more on the coast line northwards.

It is just possible that the trenches on the inner sides of A and U areas were excavated after the acquisition of firearms, to be utilised as rifle pits.

Of the Okoki pa Mr. Smith writes:—"On the end of one of the spurs running down from the ranges, was the celebrated pa called Okoki, now covered with wood about fifty feet high, but in the early years of the nineteenth century it was very strongly fortified with palisades and steep banks, cut out of the solid earth. Immediately under the pa, on the southeast side, runs the Ure-nui river, which curves round, making a bend in which the pa stands. The top of the pa, which is quite level, is about two hundred feet above the river. There were at least three rows of palisades around the pa in former times, erected on the edge of the terraces that had been cut out and levelled so as to admit of house sites. On the southern face of the pa, the scarped bank sloping down from the platform on top was at least fifty feet in height. Down the face of this escarpment is a deep artificial cutting about four to six feet wide, leading down from the upmost platform towards the river which was used as the entrance to the pa, and the way by which the inhabitants fetched their water. It is so steep that there must have been steps in it originally. It was, no doubt, protected by palisades, and would be easily defended. The platform on top is about two hundred yards long, by a varying width of from fifty to eighty yards. Here was the site of most of the houses, but all the terraces, which are about ten to fifteen yards wide, would also contain many houses. Altogether this was one of the strongest pa known. … The Ngati-Mutunga were occupying it in 1821. This clan also built and owned the pa called Ure-nui, on an isolated hill just at the mouth of the river, on the north side; Pohokura, a very strong pa on another isolated hill a quarter of a mile to the east [?] of the last; Te Rewa, another strong pa just across the river from Pohokura; Kumarakaiamo, within the present township of Urenui; and Pihanga, on the south bank of the river page 239near the mouth, which was occupied by the Native Contingent under Captain Good, in the middle 'sixties' of the 19th century. There are numerous other pa in the neighbourhood, but the above are the principal ones that still remain, and add so greatly to the interest of the scenery of that picturesque country." The names of the Pohokura and Urenui forts in the above narrative should be transposed.