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The Pa Maori

Manu-korihi Pa, Situated at Waitara, Taranaki

Manu-korihi Pa, Situated at Waitara, Taranaki

This is a remarkably fine specimen of an old pre-European fortified position, showing some very heavy earthworks that are well preserved, which same are a good illustration of the massive defences adopted by a neolithic folk poorly supplied with missile weapons. This old fort was occupied for centuries, and was abandoned about the year 1826. In 1842 when examined by Mr. Carrington it was covered with a growth of light bush and fern; it is now (1914) entirely covered with a fine sward of grass, and has been so covered for many years.

Mr. Carrington was a surveyor, and made a plan of this old fort, which is here reproduced. See Fig. 45 opposite. In Fig. 46, p. 178, appears the rough plan made by myself in 1914, seventy-two years later. A portion of the outermost rampart has been levelled since Mr. Carrington made his plan, also his 'Outer trench' has disappeared. The heavy rampart at D would have no stockade on it. On any high rampart having a stockade on it there would be sufficient space inside it to allow the defenders to stand there and manipulate their long spears, which would be thrust between the palisades.

This pa is situated on a bluff overlooking the Waitara river on its northern side, and near the township. This high bluff facing the river is perpendicular and it trends back from the river to form the western face of the pa. Thus two sides are protected by steep bluffs, while the third and longest side of the triangle is protected by three lines of heavy earthworks, each of which encloses a residential area; the whole enclosed space is level land. All the advantages of a level residential area were combined with those of two steep bluffs for protection.

Proceeding from the point A, immediately above the bridge, along the river bluff to B, 100 yards distant, we find that the cliff is perpendicular and unscaleable. From B on to Z it runs as a steep but negotiable bluff, doubtless surmounted by a stockade when the position was occupied, at which time the upper part of the cliff face would be scarped so as to present a vertical wall. Between B and C there was probably an entrance to the pa, with a track running up the bluff page 177 Fig. 45—Plan of Manu-korihi Pa at Waitara. Prepared by Mr. Carrington in 1842. in a diagonal line from the river side. At the base of the bluff a narrow strip of low alluvial flat increases in width up stream. Shell refuse is seen on the slopes.

From C a line of earthwork defence extends 64 yards to N.N.E., ending at D. It is composed of a fosse with a heavy rampart or wall of earth superimposed on its inner side. The present bottom of the fosse is six feet wide at the cliff end, but widens out until it reaches a width of 16 ft. at D. The outer scarp of the fosse is 7 ft. in height, the inner or western one is 12 ft. at C, but increases to 15 ft. at D, though less in the middle, where much abrasion has taken place. These measurements include the inner rampart. A portion of the middle part of the wall seems to have been removed. At C the fosse is 30 ft. from brow to brow, and 40 ft. at D.

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Fig. 46—Plan of Manu-korihi Pa made by the writer in 1914

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Continuing round the inner line of defence, at 44 yards from D we reach at E, an opening in the wall that was apparently one of the main entrances to the area marked I. From D to E the earth wall is still from 6 to 8 ft. above the level of the interior area. Outside this wall is a huge fosse with another wall or rampart on the top of the counter-scarp. From brow to brow of these walls across the fosse is about 50 ft. The fosse must have originally been 20 ft. wide at the bottom but is now rounded by the deposits of debris. On the inner side of the ditch the scarp or batter is 12 ft. high at the north end and 16 ft. near D, where the fosse is a little narrower. The abrasion and erosion of walls, as also the filling in of the fosse must be taken into consideration, hence the original scarp must have been fully 20 ft. in height. The outer scarp of the ditch at D is 13 ft. in height.

Proceeding from E to F the superimposed wall on the inner or western side of the fosse is 9 ft. above the interior level in the middle, but less at both ends. In this stretch no wall appears on the outer edge of the fosse, but that on the outer or eastern side of the D to E fosse swerves off at E to the north-east and runs in a curved line to the cliff head at U, thus enclosing the large area marked II.

The fosse from E to F has an outer scarp, or counter-scarp, of 8 ft., and an inner one of 16 ft. near the former point. Abrasion and filling in of the fosse has much impaired the regularity of parts of the defences. Brow to brow measurement at F is fully 30 ft. The outer area, II., is about 9 ft. below the interior defence.

At 23 yards from F is a break in the wall and the fosse is filled in opposite it. This may or may not be an original entrance. At a point 52 yards further on is another such break in the defences. From F to G the fosse gradually decreases in depth from 8 ft. to 4 ft., carrying a bottom width of 8 or 9 ft. No outer rampart exists on the E to G line. The inner scarp averages 10 ft. in height but is broken down in places, the wall on the inner side being from 5 ft. to 8 ft. high. The enclosed area marked I within this defence is a fine level expanse about 210 yards by 130 to 200 yards, an admirable residential area, and yet marked by such tokens of old occupation as hut sites, store pits and waterworn stones used for domestic purposes. A race course has at some time been formed within this area. To such base uses has Manu-korihi sunk.

The site of this pa is a fine commanding one, from which is obtained a good view of the river, ocean and surrounding lands.

From A to U the position is bounded by a steep bluff doubtless steeply scarped in its upper part when the place was occupied. This bluff has evidently been a midden or place where refuse was thrown. page 180The flat below has also been occupied in former times. Near A are two small terraces cut out of the face of the bluff. This high bluff would be easily defended.

From U to V we follow the outer line of defence of area II. The wall is now 5 ft. and upwards in height, but the outer fosse has been filled up, presumably by the natives who still reside here just outside this defence.

At W occurs a break in the wall of about 30 ft., east of which break the wall continues, not in line with the V to W part, but some yards further north. The wall presents an outer scarp of 9 ft. to 11 ft., but considerable abrasion has taken place. From G across to W the distance is 120 yards. From W to X we find a curved line of defence consisting of a wall and outer ditch. This wall, which is much abraded, is now from 3 ft. to 6 ft. higher than the level interior area, and shows several gaps, one of which may possibly be an original entrance. Many such gaps or breaks in such defences are cattle tracks formed by trampling of stock. The ditch is 6 ft. deep at and near X and running out at W. The enclosure marked S in area II. is a modern burial ground. In some places there appear to be the remains of a parapet outside the ditch, though this matter is somewhat doubtful. The inner scarp of the ditch is from 11 ft. downwards in height. The ditch is 10 ft. to 12 ft. wide and contains much debris. This defence extends on past X to J where it is discontinued, and a gap of 30 ft. occurs opposite the entrance at E. The wall is then continued along the eastern side of the D-E fosse. There was probably a ngutu or double stockaded entrance passage at J-E. The ditch from X to J is deeper than heretofore and presents a small parapet or earth wall on the outer scarp, that scarp being 7 ft. in height and the inner one 12 ft., decreasing somewhat towards X and J. From brow to brow about 25 ft. The open space marked by a cross near J shows a curious rectangular area of 14 yards by 10 yards that has been raised, built up apparently in connection with the defence of the opening.

The wall from this entrance onward to Y is an extremely massive one, between it and the D-E wall is a huge fosse. Opposite D this outer wall ceases to run parallel to the inner one, it curves outward and southward to Y to enclose area III., ending at the top of the bluff. This wall is well preserved and its rounded top is from 6 ft. to 8 ft. wide. The brow to brow measurement where the two walls are parallel on the D-E line is from 40 ft. to 50 ft. The fosse here is from 15 ft. to 18 ft. wide at the bottom, its outer scarp is 15 ft. From D to Y the wall is 8 ft. to 9 ft. above the interior area, but has no fosse inside it; the fosse angles at D to follow the D-C wall. The D-E line of defence is extraordinarily heavy and stands as another of the many page 181proofs that, in pre-gun days, defenders of forts occupied the tops of the earthen defensive ramparts. The gap marked in the J-Y wall is probably an old entrance. The outer scarp or face of this J to Y wall is yet steep and 12 ft. in height. From Y at the cliff head to the gap the outer ditch is deep and shows remains of a parapet on the top of the counter-scarp. Inner scarp, 16 ft.; outer scarp, 9 ft., though somewhat less at the two ends. Scarps present a very steep batter where protected by a growth of shrubs, lately destroyed by fire. From the gap onward to the J-E entrance, the outer scarp of the outer ditch is from 3 to 5 feet high.

From Y to Z the bluff is less precipitous than heretofore, the upper part bearing some appearance of having been steeply scarped for 12 ft. or 15 ft., indeed such must have been the case.

The outer defensive rampart enclosing the long area IV starts from the cliff head at Z and shows three gaps ere it reaches Z1. One of these probably represents an original entrance, possibly the one nearest the bluff. This defence is a curved wall with an outer ditch, and it swings inward opposite E, where the enclosed area is only 30 yards wide. The height of the wall above the interior area is 8 ft. and under. The ditch outside it is wide at the northern end, being 12 ft. across the bottom, with a counter-scarp of 5 ft. to 6 ft. and an inner scarp of 10 ft. to 15 ft. No exterior parapet. Towards the south end the inner scarp of the ditch is about 18 ft. but the ditch narrows; this is the outermost defence. The depth of detritus in the ditch and the abraded wall top have to be added to the 18 ft. in order to show former conditions; an extremely strong defence. At one place the wall is still 20 ft. high, that is the scarp, which includes the batter of the ditch and the superimposed wall.

The diagram illustrating the scarp batter near D shows how well preserved is the batter of this high scarp; indeed in some parts the lower part is yet steeper, having been preserved by a growth of bracken fern and shrubs. It is absolutely certain that much of the brow of the wall, that is the upper part of the scarp, has crumbled away, and it seems highly probable that the original batter of the scarp is more nearly shown by the dotted line on the diagram. A wall with a 25 ft. scarp of that batter would be practically unassailable in pre-gun days, when the defenders on the summit were attending to their business.

The outer scarp of the southern end of the fosse is 8 ft. to 9 ft. in height, with a brow to brow span of over 30 ft. For some distance the top of the wall is even now 12 ft. above the outer area, a fact that would give defenders much advantage. The defensive works in this page 182vicinity are unusually massive and extensive, also well preserved. They must have been truly imposing when intact, during the occupation of the place.

Proceeding along the terrace from Z to the S.E. for a distance of 55 yards, we come to a small fortified place that may have been a form of outwork, or a modern pa of late times. It is about 50 x 43 yards in size and is defended by ditch and bank.

From Z1 to Z2 the outer defence shows a wall 5 ft. above the level of area IV., with an outer fosse 9 ft. wide, showing an outer scarp of 5 ft. and an inner one of from 9 ft. to 12 ft. A gap at 72 yards from Z1 is probably modern. This work is continued on to Z3 where it comes to an abrupt end and beyond that no sign of defences are seen on this line. The continuation of these earthworks seem to have been destroyed, as Carrington's plan of 1842 shows them continued to the cliff head. A gap between Z2 and Z3 was possibly an entrance to area IV. The rampart along this section is from 6 ft. to 7 ft. above the level of the enclosed area. The swampy creek 50 yards outside this defence would represent a water supply. The ditch continues much the same, with a scarp of 15 ft. downwards, and a counterscarp of 4 ft. to 6 ft. Outside Z3 and its vicinity are several apparently artificial mounds, the object of which is not clear. The outlying trench shown on Carrington's plan has apparently been filled and so effaced.

The cliff overhanging the river appears to be fully 70 ft. in height.

The defences of Manu-korihi include a large area, all of which is a level terrace and could be utilised as hut sites, etc. There is no waste ground from cliff head to outer wall. Unquestionably the place would accommodate several thousands of natives in times of stress; at other times many would live outside the defences, as is clearly shown by middens and other tokens. The defences at area III. end are much the best preserved and the more massive. The condition of some of these earthworks is most noteworthy when the friable nature of the soil is considered. Vegetation has preserved them, but fire and cattle are now working sad havoc with them.

Shell refuse is seen in the ditches and walls in the vicinity of area III.

The Manu-korihi pa was named after an ancestor of the local tribe (Ngati-Awa) who is said to have migrated from the Bay of Plenty district to Waitara ten generations ago. A local clan or subtribe of Ngati-Awa that occupied the Manu-korihi pa was known by the same name. Some of these folk are now living at the northern end of the pa, just outside the defences.

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The heavier defences of Manu-korihi may be compared with those of pre-Roman earthworks in England, though some of the old British forts much exceed those of the Maori both in extent and in the dimensions of the ramparts.

The wall built by the Romans from sea to sea across Northumbria was 16 ft. in height and 8 ft. thick, with an outer fosse 10 ft. deep and 40 ft. from brow to brow. A few hundred yards south of the Roman wall was another fosse and earthen wall topped by a stockade.