Figure 97.—Basket ('ato fili tasi) plait and join:

a, What was originally the left end is now on the right. The odd first dextral (1) on the original left has its pair made up by the odd leaflet (14) on the end of the strip on the left. This odd leaflet forms the binding element of the join. b, The strip end on the right is placed behind the other to overlap slightly so that the projecting free sinistrals on the left are parallel with the plaited sinistrals on the right. The odd leaflet (14) is pushed through the interspace on the right of the first dextral (1) and over its midrib strip. It is then drawn tightly down to draw out the slack. Its subsequent course is part of the next process of filling in the end. The marginal sinistral (13') on the left and the marginal dextral (1) on the right form the boundaries of the plaited part. Between them is a v-shaped part occupied by the free ends of the projecting dextrals from the left and the sinistrals from the right. This gap has to be filled in by plaiting the free crossing wefts. c, The six dextrals on the left form the working dextrals. To comply with the check technique, the wefts (9, 11, and 13) are raised to form a shed. The binding leaflet (14) is pulled firmly to keep the midrib ends together, brought up around the near strip and then laid in the shed as a sinistral weft. This closes in the gap shown in (a). d, The raised dextrals are straightened out over the sinistral (14) and the alternates raised to form a shed for the next sinistral, which is (2'). The check plait is continued to work in the remaining free sinistrals but with each movement the top free working dextral is turned forward to rest on the sinistral in next shed, as was done in the main plaiting. In this way the gap is filled in and the plaiting forms a collar of even depth. (See Plate XIII, B.)

Figure 98.—Basket ('ato fili tasi), closing bottom (first course).

(See Pl. XIII, C.) a, With the continuous plaiting edge approximated into a right and left side, the direction of the weft ends differ. On the right side, the free sinistral wefts (1) project towards the worker while the tucked down dextrals (3), even if pulled out, are directed away from her. On the left, the free sinistrals (2) are directed away from and the tucked down dextrals (4) towards the plaiter. The position here is slightly different to that in the carrying sheet owing to the two sides being formed from different sides of the leaf and the free projecting wefts being both directed towards the worker. In the first course of the braid, the free wefts on the right can be utilized, but on the left the tucked-down wefts must be pulled up, as required to cross with the elements from the right. b, Commencing at the far end of the approximated sides, the end free weft on the right (1) is pulled across the middle line in its natural direction. An end turned-down weft on the right (2) is crossed over it and then the second free weft from the right (3) is crossed over (2). These three wefts provide the three commencing plies of the braid and of these (1) is the back element of the working pair. c, The back ply (1) is twisted over (3) to the middle position from the left. The next turned weft (4) is shown resting on the free weft (5), which has been cut off in the figure for clearness. d, Before the turned-down weft (4) is pulled up, the free weft (5) on which it lies is pulled across the work in its natural direction. The turned-down weft (4) is then pulled up from under the crossing weft which keeps it down. It is straightened but across the free weft (5) as is natural with the check technique and laid down over the middle ply (1), with whose direction it naturally coincides. e, The back ply of the working pair (2) is now twisted over the front ply (1, 4) to the middle position. The next free weft from the right (6) is then added to the middle ply (2). The technique is now established. In the next movement, the back ply (3) will be twisted over the ply in front (2, 6) to the middle position. Before the next turned-down weft (7) is added to the middle ply from the left, the free weft (8) (cut off in figure) will be pulled up across the braid, then (7) pulled up, crossed over (8) and laid over the middle ply. f, The appearance of the first course is here evident. The free wefts from the left (2) which cannot be used have each in turn been pulled across the braid. They merely continue the check and are not incorporated in the braid. They project across the middle line of the braid but, as their direction carries them clear to the back of the working plies, they do not confuse the work. The lowest three (numbered 2) are cut off in the figure to show up the braid. On the right, the turned-down wefts (3) are shown still tucked clown out of the way.

Figure 99.—Basket ('ato fili tasi) closing bottom (second course; see Pl. XIII, D),

a, With the basket reversed, the direction of the remaining two sets of wefts are also reversed. The free wefts which come in from the left and were pulled across the braid away from the worker are now on the right (2) and directed toward her. The turn-down wefts that were on the right are now on the left (3) and when pulled out will cross the other set toward the worker. b, The free tail is doubled over towards the worker. In this position the first turned-down weft on the left (4) is in the line of the middle ply (1). c, Though, owing to the doubling over of the braid, the middle ply (1) lies under (3) instead of over it, it does not matter for one or two turns. The turned-down weft (4) is pulled up from under its crossing weft and laid over the middle ply (1). d, The back ply (2) of the working pair is now twisted forward to the middle position. Owing again to the reversal of the free tail, it is better for (2) to pass under the front ply (1, 4) for this stroke. The first free weft from the right (5) is then laid on the middle ply (2). The free elements from the right project across the middle line and from their downward direction, they now lie, when required, under the working plies of the braid. They have therefore to be picked up on the right side of the braid, pulled up from under it and then laid on the middle ply that twists into position from the right. e, The back ply (3) is twisted forward from the left over the front ply (2, 5) into the middle position. The next turned-down weft on the left (6) is pulled free and laid on the middle ply (3). f, The established technique continues with the free wefts from the right (2) and the turned-down wefts from the left (3) alternately joining the middle ply as it twists into position from their respective sides. All twists to the middle position are over the ply in front except in the two turns at the beginning. When the second course of braiding reaches the near end and has incorporated all the weft ends, the braiding is continued as a free tail (9) for the remaining length of the material. It is finished off with an overhand knot, which is pushed through the plaiting to the inside of the basket.

Figure 100.—Basket ('ato fili tolu) closing bottom (first course):

a, A section of the plaiting edge shows the free dextrals inclined away from the plaiter while the turned-down sinistrals are toward her even when freed from under the crossing wefts. Following the principle already established, the wefts inclined towards the worker will be used in the first course of braiding. In order, however, to start the braiding, two free wefts (1 and 2) are used for the first two plies before the first turned-down weft (3) comes into the combination. b, The first free weft (1) at the point selected for commencing is crossed over the next free weft on the right (2). They are pulled down out of the natural direction of their course. The first turned-down weft (3) to form the third ply is the one which emerges from under the second free weft (2) and which is tucked down along the course of the next free weft (4). c, Before the turned-down weft (3) is lifted, the free weft on which it lies (4) is picked up and lifted over the first two plies formed by (1 and 2). Its natural direction throws it back behind the working part of the plies. d, The turned-down weft (3) is lifted and straightened out over the free weft (4) to continue the check technique and then crossed over the first ply (1) to form the third ply in the middle position. The three plies (1, 2, and 3) are now established. All subsequent additions to the braid come from the plaiting or right side. They are taken from the turned-down wefts in order and are added to the middle ply after the back weft of the working pair has been twisted into the middle position from the right. Before a turned-down weft is added, the free dextral on which its turned-down part rests must be pulled up over the braid above and to the back of the Working plies. e, The back ply (2) is now twisted in from the left over (3) to the middle position. No elements are added to the middle ply when it twists in from the left free edge. f, The back ply (1) is twisted over the ply (2) to the middle position. As it came in from the right the next turned-down weft to be added to it is (5), which rests on (6). g, Before the turned-down weft (5) is added to the middle ply (1), the free weft (6) on which it lies is pulled over the braid. The weft (5) is then straightened out to cross over (6) and is added to the middle ply (1). h, The established technique is continued with the appearance shown. The plaiting edge is moved around as the braid continues right around the plaiting margin until it arrives back at the commencement point. The relative position of the free wefts and the turned-down weft remains the same throughout.

Figure 101.—Basket ('ato fili tolu) closing bottom (second course):

a, The braiding of the first course is completed when the last turned-down wefts (1' and 2') are respectively added to the middle ply from the right. After the last one (2') is added to the middle ply, the back ply with (1') is twisted in from the left to the middle position. The first free weft (4) which passed over the commencement of the braid is now to the right. It is passed under the last two wefts added to the braid (1' and 2') and then brought up over the braid to enter the middle ply (1') from the left. The weft (4) thus binds the commencement and finish of the marginal braid together and is termed the so'o (join). The mesial braid commences with the twist next to the join. Taking this as the far point, the braid is plaited down the mesial line towards the worker by adding the free wefts alternately from either side to the ply that has been twisted into the middle position from the respective sides. In this position, the projecting free wefts which were all dextrals, incline toward the plaiter on the left but away from her on the right. The difference in direction on the right makes no difference to technique, but they are simply bent back with or without a half turn to take their place in the braid. b, As the last addition was the joining weft from the left, the back ply is twisted into the middle position from the right and the next free weft on the right (6) added to the ply. Then follows a twist on the left and the addition of the first free weft on the left (7). As the braiding proceeds down the mesial line, the alternate wefts from either side (8-13) are slightly lengthened before inclusion in the braid. Past the middle of the course, they are gradually shortened again so that the elliptical marginal braid is not closed in too much at the sides. In this way a somewhat rounded bottom is given to the basket, which contrasts with the single braid basket. When all the free wefts have been used up, the braid is continued on as a free tail, knotted at the end and thrust through the bottom of the basket to the inside. (See Plate XIII, E and F.)