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Mihawhenua: The Adventures of a Party of Tourists Amongst a Tribe of Maoris Discovered in Western Otago, New Zealand

Chapter V. We meet the Maoris

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Chapter V. We meet the Maoris.

The ice raft floating on the current of the stream appeared capable of carrying us for some days. Nevertheless we deemed it prudent to put our boats together without delay. When we turned and looked back at the hill we had so lately descended in such novel fashion, we became aware of the great height through which we had rushed. The peak seemed almost to touch the sky, and to become lost to view in the great distance.

"How on earth are we ever to get back again?" was Gordon's practical question after we had satisfied our amazement gazing at the wonderful way we had come.

The idea had never occurred to me. After a moment I replied—

"Oh! we'll surely find another way out of this?"

Richards pointed to a lower range of hills to the right ot where we had climbed the high mountain.

"There must be no talk of turning back for many days to come," I continued. "We have many adventures to go through yet, but none of such risk, I hope, as that we have just passed."

"Well, what is to be our programme for to-night?" enquired Richards. "Are we to stay on the ice all night, or shall we land and moor our boat?"

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We decided to land, and with that object in view set about bringing the iceberg towards the bank. This was no easy task. The river was fully 200 yards wide, and we had nothing in the nature of paddles but the ice poles which had been fastened in with the boats. The huge mass of ice was no easy thing to navigate, but fortunately we soon reached a spot where the current bore towards the bank. Here we launched one of our boats, in which Lode and Macdonald paddled ashore with a line, and soon managed to pull the floating mass towards the land, where we secured it to the short trees growing on the bank. We then got a fire made, and had our wet clothes dried, after which we went through the process of preparing a meal. We had tea and biscuits with us, but with the exception of a few pounds of preserved fish, had nothing more substantial. If we could not replenish our store shortly the outlook would become the reverse of cheerful. The advantage of having our boats was now apparent, as we were able to lie down under the shelter of them, feeling secured against any change of weather, and protected from the heavy dew we felt to be falling.

At daybreak I was awakened by a peculiar noise near our camping ground, and at once got up to ascertain the cause. As I rose to my feet a flock of waterfowl as large as geese rose from the river close by and flew away up the stream in the direction we intended going. I had no time to get my fowling piece out, so missed the opportunity of perhaps securing a change of victuals for that day's breakfast. However, the discovery of a possibility of replenishing our larder was a welcome one, and lent a wonderful degree of hope to the tone in which I related the circumstance to page 47my companions later on. We were early aboard our ice raft that day, and, getting it well into the current of the stream, were slowly moving through the plain. This mode of progress was extremely pleasant after the toilsome experiences of the past. The river banks were low and overgrown with vegetation, consisting chiefly of tall flax and low scrub, so that we could not see any of the land beyond. Presently, however, the aspect of the plain changed; it became a vast paddock of rich green grass, with occasional breaks of flax or scrub, and sometimes a tuft of thick tussocks.

"Look!" cried Gordon, suddenly pointing in the direction of a smooth, grassy patch some miles to the eastward.

I turned in the direction he indicated.

"What is it?" I asked.

"See, far away over there, near that belt of flax. Surely these are moas?"

Straining my eyes, I saw what appeared to be three large birds trotting over the plain away from us. They had the appearance of having two heads: a second and shorter neck and head seemed to rise up behind the first.

"What would I give for a good telescope?" cried Richards.

"Or to be within rifle shot of them?" I remarked.

"I hope we will be able to get near some of them," observed Gordon absently, watching the fast disappearing birds.

At the great distance they seemed to move but slowly over the ground, and from the size presented to us looked to be much higher up to their backs than the tallest horse. They were speedily lost to view.

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"What do you say to an excursion into the plain tomorrow instead of continuing down the river?" suggested Richards.

Gordon looked at me inquiringly before replying.

"Don't you think we should take advantage of the river transit as long as we can. We'll not be able to get back again in this way, and should make as much use of the ice block as possible."

The ice was gradually thawing, so that we could not look to having the raft many days longer, if indeed the nest day might not see it useless. This consideration therefore determined the question, and we decided to continue down the river as at present. That evening we moored our raft early, taking advantage of a clump of forest to land and camp, and soon had a large fire blazing on the bank.

When we were sitting around this, Lode, who had gone some distance into the bush, rushed out to tell us that he saw a flock of large birds flying in our direction. Instantly Gordon and I seized our guns and stood ready. With a great rush the birds swept down past the coiling smoke of our fire, and landed in the water not 50 yards from where we stood.

"Now," said Gordon, "we must be careful to make a bag at the first shot."

The waterfowl were of the same kind as those I had seen in the morning. About a dozen of them had alighted in the water, and were slowly moving with craning necks towards the fire, beside which, we stood. Impelled by a natural curiosity, and unconscious of any danger, they were bent on discovering what new intruder had disturbed page 49the solitude of their haunts. Cackling loudly, and apparently indifferent to our appearance as we stood still with guns in rest, they drew nearer and nearer.

"Ready," I whispered to Gordon. "You fire to the left, I'll take the right, and see if we can't pot three or four with both barrels."

As I spoke, Gordon raised his gun. Following his example, I called out to him to fire, and we let fly both charges with such good effect that five birds lay struggling on the water, while the others rose in all directions, and flew rapidly and with great din far over our heads.

Macdonald and Lode took one of the boats and soon recovered the fallen birds. Three of them were quite dead, and the others they speedily despatched by a knock on the head with a piece of wood.

The celerity with which Lode plucked and cooked a couple of the birds was startling, and could only have been born of long experience.

The addition of roast goose to our meal was a most welcome one, and we fared more sumptuously that evening than we had for many days past. The knowledge that we were not without some good source of food supply was also a most invigorating one, and lent us new heart to pursue our explorations.

Night fell upon us shortly afterwards, and when we had made up the fire we sought the shelter of our inverted boats, and, under the influence of the hearty meal we had eaten, were soon wrapped in sleep, and indulging in dreams of adventure and narrow escape. For my own part, I again went through the experience of our descent of the page 50mountain, but in imagination many times more enthralling than the reality.

The perils and adventures of dreamland find no fitting parallel in the experiences of our waking hours.

After going through all kinds of adventures on the mountain and in the river, I dreamt of shooting birds and animals of most peculiar forms and sizes; then of chasing moas and discovering Maoris; and presently I heard the sound as of voices calling from afar in unknown tongues, and with this impression on my mind I awoke.

My first consciousness was of still hearing the sound of voices close by where I lay.

Trembling with apprehension, I moved from under the boat, whispering to Gordon, who lay beside me, and at once stood up.

To say that I was surprised at what met my gaze conveys but a poor impression of my feelings. Before me stood eight or ten stalwart Maoris engaged in animated conversation, as they contemplated the sight of our upturned boats.

On seeing me emerge from under one of the boats, followed by Gordon, they gave a cry of surprise, but exhibited no fear.

As I stood still watching them, one advanced from the others, holding out both hands as indication that his intentions were peaceful. He carried no weapon, and exhibited so clearly his desire to be friendly, that I felt no dread. Advancing to meet him, I placed both my hands in his, and was surprised to find him grasp them warmly, and draw me close to him until our foreheads met. This he repeated three times, and then left me to page 51embrace Gordon in the same way. All the while he kept repeating two or three words, evidently a question addressed to us, of which we could make nothing. After a while, seeing that he could not make us understand, he pointed away down the river, then to our boats and baggage, and seemed to indicate that we should accompany him with all our belongings.

By this time the others of our party were astir, and our Maori friend went through the same form of salutation with each of them. I asked each to acquiesce in the ceremony, and assured them that I felt convinced of peaceful intentions on the part of the natives. Meanwhile the rest of the Maoris had stood aloof watching us and talking earnestly as they criticised each of our party. Calling to them, the Maori who had saluted us gave some order, and instantly four of the others ran off down the river.

This proceeding gave me the first tinge of fear I had felt. Was there some treachery afoot? However, I decided to put the bravest possible face on the matter, and offered some food to the nearest Maori. He took a biscuit without hesitation, and seeing me eat one, followed my example, muttering something which evidently meant to express his appreciation of it.

Then I took a pannikin of cold tea, and, placing it to my lips, handed it to him. He drank some at once, then shook his head, and handed it back to me. Thinking that the tea probably tasted bitter, I put some sugar in it, and, after shaking it briskly, again gave it to him. Doubtfully he drank more, then nodded and smiled as if approving, at the same time pointing to the sugar as if asking for more.

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When I put some more sugar in he took a good drink, and distributed the balance as a taste to each of his companions, who seemed delighted with the liquid.

At this moment we saw a large canoe shoot quickly up the river, propelled by the four Maoris who had left the group some minutes before.

They pulled swiftly towards us, and landing with great expertness, drew the prow of the vessel high and dry upon the bank.

We then clearly saw that the intention of the Maoris was that we should accompany them at once.

"We'd better go," said Gordon.

"Yes," said Richards; "put all our things in the boats, and let them tow us down."

This we thought the better course, so, placing everything in the boats, we indicated our intention to accompany the Maoris, and were soon being pulled swiftly astern of their canoe. As earnest of his good intentions, the chief had at my invitation accepted a seat in one boat with Gordon and myself, the rest of our party occupying the other. The Maori rowers paddled their boat with wonderful skill, and, notwithstanding the incumbrance of our two boats, made amazing progress down the river. Presently they broke out into a musical chant, keeping time to the splashing of their paddles. The influence this singing had on us can be better imagined than described. The comforting knowledge that we were amongst a people who practised the refining art of music as accompaniments of peaceful occupations made us feel more cheerful, and assured us of safety more than anything else could possibly have done.