Recollections of Travel in New Zealand and Australia
A Journey from the Upper Hutt to Waikanae
A Journey from the Upper Hutt to Waikanae.
On January 1st, 1863, I started with Mr. David, Mr. Ewen of Belmont, and two men whose names respectively were Parsons and Lowe, from Brown's Hotel at the Upper Hutt, to force our way through the bush to the west coast. We set out at 1 P.M., crossed the Hutt river, and walked up to the junction of the Hakatarewaha, a considerable stream which falls into the Hutt river at the western curve of a big bend of that stream. Here we encamped for the night on the gravel bed of the river, and set lines for eels.
On January 2d we found no eels on our lines, so had to do without fish for breakfast. We found the Hakatarewaha to be at the junction a river about one-third the size of the Hutt.*
* Is it not to be regretted that the by no means euphonious name of Hutt should have been substituted for the soft-flowing, native name Haeretaonga?
On January 3rd we started in a drizzling rain, passing over terraces and flats of considerable extent. Our ascent was gradual but considerable, and we found gravel terraces at a height of 750 feet. During the afternoon we came to the third gorge, and we encamped for the night in a limited gravel bed in the channel of the stream, the surrounding land offering no other level space.
* These ducks are chiefly found towards the sources of the rivers. They have a short flight, but are very active in scrambling among the rocks.
* These are evergreen fagi. Almost all the trees in New Zealand are evergreen—one exception being a tree fuchsia, which reaches a height of twenty feet or more.
Our road, geologically speaking, had led entirely over sandstones and slates similar to those around Wellington, until we emerged upon the alluvium and sand near the coast.
On my return to Wellington I walked through from Pauatahanui to the Hutt by what is called Beetham's line. It is a line taken for the greater part straight, like a Roman road, consequently forms a constant ascent and descent, and is a most fatiguing walk.
I reached the Hutt too late for the coach, and was unable to procure any other conveyance. I therefore set out to walk into town; luckily a kind Samaritan picked me up and deposited me at my house, where I arrived in a very ragged condition, my clothes torn to pieces, struggling through the bush.