Chap. II.

The first thing I did, after getting on shore, was to take a view of the country, I had so anxiously longed to be an inhabitant of. But great was my disappointment! bleak and barren mountains only presented themselves to my sight. No houses for inhabitants of any kind, and only some stunted trees, here and there in the hollows, which afforded no shelter from either sun or rain. I roamed about with a heavy heart, as there seemed no possibility of subsisting, and was almost tempted to page 41return in the canoe to the opposite shore: but that idea kept not its ground long; my detestation of it soon recurred to my imagination. But, besides, as all my provisions were expended, how could such a passage be undertaken without more, and where were they to be found? In this disconsolate state of mind, I wandered about, without any object in view; when happily a clear stream of excellent water presented itself. This gave me some consolation, and I drank freely of it. It then occurred to me, that though the land seemed to produce nothing for the support of human life, yet the sea might: recollecting the excellent oysters on the opposite shore. I examined then the beach carefully for shell-fish of any sort, but for some page 42time with little success; at last cockles, muscles, and some other kinds with which I was unacquainted, were found in great plenty; and with them my hunger was allayed. While I was busy in fulfilling the most necessary of all duties, the preservation of the individual, I happened accidentally to cast my eyes on the sand, and was much surprised to observe great numbers of prints of human feet. This gave me inconceivable joy; but where these people dwelt, as no houses were to be seen, puzzled me greatly. It was plain to me, that many hours had not passed since they had been there, because the flood tide coming in, would have effaced the impressions. I then compared the size of their feet with my own, by making prints in the sand page 43close by theirs, and found mine at least two inches longer. This made me conclude, that only children had been there; but where should they come from? The affair seemed inexplicable, and I resolved to keep thereabout 'till it was cleared up: but where else could I go, with any certainty of subsisting?

My thoughts were next employed, about the means of passing the night, in some sort of comfort and safety: to which end I pitched upon a spot, above high-water mark, betwixt two rocks; leaving just room for my bed, which I intended making of the heath which grew upon the mountains. Climbing up then the nearest, I pulled a sufficient quantity for my intention; but, upon examining the shrub with attention, it seemed of a different page 44species from what we have in England, though for my purpose preferable, being softer, and of a more agreeable smell. When night came on, I lay down upon it; hoping (notwithstanding many anxious thoughts about my situation) that sleep would for a time, release me from my cares; more especially, as the two preceding nights had scarcely afforded me any rest. About an hour after, when it was, as I judged, low water, a noise something betwixt the human voice, and grunt of a hog disturbed me. I immediafely started up, when there appeared (though the night was dark) about a dozen of human creatures of a low size, catching shell-fish on the beach. Their small size made me imagine they were children, as I had before page 45done, from the impression of their feet on the sand; I therefore went boldly up to them, and in the Otaheite language asked them where they lived. In place of any answer to my question, they ran away full speed: I followed them, and called with a tone of authority to stop; but it only increased their haste to get from me. Both my curiosity and interest were so much concerned, to know who they were, that I resolved to try if the report of my fusee, would intimidate them enough to stop their flight. I fired it up in the air, upon which they all fell down, and lay without motion, thinking no doubt they were killed. Going up to them, I said kindly, and without any signs of anger, that they were in no danger page 46from me, as I wanted their assistance both in food and lodging. The poor creatures then recovered themselves a little; and upon their knees, holding up both their hands, seemed to implore my mercy. I spoke again to them in the same mild manner, that they need fear nothing, but there was no appearance of their understanding me. Seeing that I had only signs left, by which they might be made to understand me, I tried to make them comprehend, by different gestures, that they should return to their former occupations, and with much difficulty succeeded; whilst I carefully observed them, as well as the darkness of the night would permit. My first discovery was, that they were not children, but full grown persons of a thick, squat page 47make, and only about four foot and a half high. Some young ones there also were; and all were busy in gathering shell-fish, and carrying them without high-water mark; where they laid them in separate heaps, as if belonging to different families. My next observation was, that they seemed to go about their business, with as much ease and regularity, as if it was broad day-light. But I was still more surprised, when many of them threw themselves into the water; and swimming for a little while, dived, bringing always up with, them one or two fish. These things I could not comprehend, but concluded it was owing to habit, which produces surprising effects. What next came into my thoughts, was, why these people had not come page 48also at the former ebb tide in the day-time; but that was soon accounted for, by the fear they might be in of the cannibals from the opposite shore; and seemed a convincing reason to me, that I ought to be upon my guard, against their attacks even there.

When the ebb was spent, and the flood coming in, the natives having finished for the present, all came to me, and made an offer of what they had got in rude baskets, which I declined. One of the men then made me understand by signs, that he intreated me to go home with him. This invitation was accepted, as I was curious to see their habitations. We set out for his abode about two hours before day, attended by another grown person (probably a female) and a child, and walked but page 49ter of a mile, before we entered a cave of a pretty large size, dug in the side of the mountain. It had a narrow entrance of eight or ten feet long, and then grew much wider in a roundish form; this I learned from my feeling, for it was much darker in it than in the open air. The roof was so low, that I was obliged to stand almost double; and my sense of smelling was more offended than it could have been in any pig-stye in England. All this my curiosity made me bear for some time, in hopes some kind of light would be produced: but as I heard by the motion of their jaws, they had begun to eat their fish raw, and felt some pressed against my hands, hearing at the same time an articulate grunt of invitation, (as I supposed), I could stand it no longer, page 50but groped my way out again; and happy I thought, myself when refreshed by the open air. One of them followed me, and said something, which I supposed was pressing me to return, but was civilly excused by me. I took as good notice of the situation of the cave, as the darkness would permit, and made the best of my way to the heath bed, where I sleeped comfortably till noon.

When sleep left me, my cares returned; and my thoughts were for some time employed on the disappointment of my hopes, in meeting with a sociable people on this coast. For what society could I have with such stupid, and nasty animals? whose language, seemed to differ little, from the simple and uniform sounds, with which nature has endued many page 51brutes; and whose habitations were not to be endured by a human creature, bred in decency and cleanliness. The only thing with respect to them which was favourable, was, that they did not seem fierce or dangerous, and had conceived a great respect for me; which I might improve to my advantage. When I arose, and walked on the beach, it, was quite as solitary as the day before, though it was then ebb tide, not the least appearance of a human creature. This was accounted for by me, in the same manner as the night before; from the fear of irruptions of the cannibals from the opposite coast; and I concluded it necessary to be in more security from them, than where my bed at present was placed. After mature delibera-page 52tion, I could fall on no better contrivance, than imitating the natives; either in finding an uninhabited cave, which I might get cleaned out, or setting them to work to dig me a new one, if I observed by day-light, that those in use were not damp or unwholesome. Having come to this resolution, after satisfying my hunger with some shell-fish, and my thirst at the limpid stream, I set out in quest of my host's habitation, and after no very long search luckily found it.

I entered without ceremony, and having got to the bottom of the cave, which was nearly as dark as the night before; I found the three inhabitants fast asleep, lying on the bare ground, snorting and snoring, in the midst of putrid fish, and their own nasti-page 53ness, which different nauseous smells had almost overcome me. My haste to be gone, made me shake and rouse one of the full grown persons, with very little ceremony, and I at last succeeded in waking him, for it happened to be a male. I made him get up, and taking his hand, in a manner forced him out of the cave. When he was in the light, what first drew my attention, was his face; which, though of the human form, had some resemblance to a hog; like caricature drawings I had seen. He had a thick bushy beard, and (dirt excepted) was as naked as when he came into the world. No tattoings, nor ear or nose ornaments, these people being too sluggish, to have any vanity of that sort. After having satisfied my curiosity, with regard to his form, page 54I made signs to him, that I wanted a cave to sleep in; but he took not the least notice of them, either by word or gesture; nor had frequent repetitions of those and others, any more effect upon him. Suspecting then that he was still asleep, I spoke loud, but not in a threatening tone: this affected him, and convinced me he was awake. After this I tried all the means I could think of, to make him go along with me, but without success. This appearing the effects of sulkiness, I took him by the hand and forced him on; but though he followed me, it was like a blind man who depends entirely on his guide. Being much surprised at this phenomenon, I examined his eyes; and to my great surprise, found they resembled those of a mole, more than of page break

Hild Bowman del^t: et sculp^t: See Page 54

page breakpage 55a human creature. This discovery seemed to account for the blindness of these people in a full light, and their clear-sightedness in the dark; but it was so much out of the common course of nature, that I knew not how to credit it, and therefore left it for further examination. As this man could be of no assistance to me, I led him back to his cave, and laid him down in his stye.

Seeing my dependance (at least in the day-time) must be upon myself, I began to examine the nature of the cave; and found it was dug out of a soft rock, was very dry, and consequently wholesome. My next endeavours were used, towards finding an empty one, which might be appropriated to my own use; but as they were few in number, all that I could page 56see were inhabited, and all as nasty as the first. After almost despairing of success, I saw, at some distance, the mouth of one not yet examined: it proved to be only half made, and for some reason or other never completed, but was perfectly sweet and clean. This charmed me, and was the more agreeable, as it was not so deep, but that the external air would breathe upon me, to whose open exposure I had been so long accustomed. My bed of heath was my next care, which was easily removed to my new habitation; and as no other fewel could be got to dress the fish, (which I had no doubt the natives would supply me with) but the same heath: I pulled a sufficient quantity of it, and laid it in my cave; resolving that night, to treat the natives with page 57a feast of their own catching, while I at the same time made an experiment on their organs of sight.

At the usual time I went to the beach, where a much greater number of the natives were assembled, than the night before; there were near forty persons, of all ages, and of both sexes; probably from the report which had been spread of my wonderful appearance.

As soon as they saw me approaching, they all came and made their submissions on their knees, and with uplifted hands; which I most graciously received, and then made signs to them to go on with their fishing. Every thing passed in the same manner as the night before, and they catched a great many fish, of different kinds and sizes, but all unknown to page 58me; which however I found afterwards were all wholesome and well tasted. I was now thoroughly convinced, that the sight of these people was so good in the dark, that they saw the fish lying asleep at the bottom of the water, and consequently had little difficulty in seizing them, when they dived.

When all was over, they came to me as before, and made an offer of what they had caught: I took a little from each family, and made signs for them all to follow me; which was immediately complied with. The scene was at the front of my cave. My first operation was gutting the fish with my knife; which seemed new to them, as it occasioned much grunting in the circle around me. I then lighted a fire, and made a considera-page 59ble blaze, to see what effect it would have on their sight; and, as I expected, they seemed all struck blind immediately; running from it in great confusion, and tumbling one over another. As soon as the blaze was over, they came around me again, when putting the fish on the embers 'till they were sufficiently done, I began to eat them, and offered some to every one; but few accepted, and fewer, after tasting, seemed to approve my cookery; so powerful is custom, however contrary to reason and nature it may be. As soon as the repast was over, I dismissed my guests with great kindness; who no doubt wondered very much at what they had seen, and could not take me for any thing less than a divinity.

I was now settled in the neighbourhood of these wretched creatures; page 60and though there seemed nothing to be feared from their malevolence or treachery; yet, excepting the fish they gave me to sustain a miserable life, as to any society, I had better have had as many dogs or horses for my companions; much more cleanly, and very near as sensible, animals. Those would have been near me whenever I chose; but I was obliged to imitate these, in my hours of rest as well as in my habitation; for in the daytime all was solitary and dismal, nor was there a possibility of any intercourse with them in their vile habitations.

Being resolved however to make the most of my situation, I cultivated a kind of intimacy with the natives at the beach, and before my cave; the better to examine into their bodily peculiarities, and mental facul-page 61ties. For that purpose I endeavoured to learn the language, which seemed to be no very difficult matter, being a very simple one; and how could it be otherwise with people who necessarily must have so few ideas. The poor creatures were willing to oblige me, as far as their capacities would permit; and when they once understood, that by pointing to any particular part of the body or thing, I meant they should name it in their language, they immediately complied. By this common and simple method we made some progress, for I also named it to them in English.

In the course of my schooling with different masters, I learnt that they had no word for fire; they always shaking their heads whenever I pointed to it; which was a convincing proof to me, that they were entirely igno-page 62rant of it before. Their blindness in the day, and clear-sightedness in the dark, became from repeated observations a fact not to be doubted by me; however contrary it may be to the common course of nature all over the world, both in men and most kinds of animals. I shall not pretend to account for this phenomenon, unless the resemblance of their eyes to those of moles, may be thought sufficient for that purpose. But it may be asked, Did nature form these people's eyes, on purpose for their peculiar way of living in the side of that mountain? To that I shall not pretend to give an answer, but leave it to naturalists to discuss. I have been told by a learned Physician since my return, to whom I had given an account of these extraordinary mortals, page 63that there is a disorder in the eyes (but a very rare one) called nycta lopia, which exactly resembles the sight of this species of people. But it is not to be imagined, that a whole people (tho' far from numerous) can be equally diseased in that manner. It was a considerable time before I could find out, whether these people had any name they distinguished themselves by; and at last I learned that they called themselves Taupinierans; but to write it in the manner it is pronounced by them, would far exceed my power, and I shall therefore leave it to the imagination of the reader.

Having still some anxiety about a visit from the cannibals of the opposite coast, I one night carried several of my friends to the place where the page 64canoe lay, letting them know that I had come in it from the opposite coast. This seemed another novelty to them, and they had no name for it; which gave me no small satisfaction, as I might now sleep in quiet, without fearing such disagreeable guests. It had lain a little on my conscience, that I had not been able to return that canoe; but as there was no possibility of doing it, I was obliged to leave the restoration of it to fortune.

The only Taupinieran whom I suffered to enter my habitation, was a boy of five or six years old from the next cave to me. All animals when young, are prettier, and more playful, than those come to maturity; this child diverted me, and had taken a particular fancy to my com-page 65pany. He sometimes stole to my cave in the dusk of the evening, (which was their morning) before it was quite dark, when we used to play together. One evening when we were at romps, I discovered to my great surprise, that he had a short tail, like that of a young pig; being scarcely able to believe my own feeling, I examined it over and over, and found it an undoubted truth. Though I had no doubt of finding the whole race formed in the same manner, it would have been inexcusable in me, to have neglected ascertaining the fact incontestably; especially when it might be done with so little trouble: the result was, that both sexes were furnished with these small appendages. I am apprehensive that my veracity may be here liable to page 66suspicion; which has set me on reading books of travels, and examining the opinions of authors on that subject, since my return home. Great was my joy, to find that several travellers had seen men with such rear appendixes; which a learned judge in the northern part of this island has made a collection of, and, after a thorough examination, gives entire credit to. It is also very satisfactory to me, that this my account of the Taupinierans, will give a singular pleasure to this learned gentleman; who has been sneered at by some smatterers in knowledge, on this very account.

The females were no ways distinguished from the males in their dress; the love of show supposed to be innate in that sex, took not place here; page 67perhaps from a want of the possibility of gratifying it. But I must do these ladies the justice to declare, that on seeing some glass beads, which all savages are fond of, they took no pleasure in them, and declined their acceptance. By the advances which several of them made me, they however seemed to have no objection to a tender connection; but I gave none of them any encouragement, as it was always my opinion, that wronging another in his bed was a very great crime. It may be perhaps said, that my virtue was put under no great temptation. I grant it; but considering my youth, health, and long absence from Otaheite, many in my circumstances might not have withstood it.

Marriage amongst these people is contracted with little ceremony, there page 68being neither priest nor magistrate; and is as easily dissolved, both being dependent on the will of the parties.

Paternal government in each family, is the only one known; all being alike in authority; and if any dispute happens about their fish, it is referred to their male neighbours, whose verdict is always decisive. I could not learn that they had any religion, except a kind of veneration for the moon; which they pay when first seen after the change, by falling down on their faces for some moments. It did not appear to me to be on account of the light she gave, as that they would willingly be excused from; but because it was the finest sight, which came within their sphere of vision; for they have not the least idea of the sun.

The number of that singular species of men at this place, was under fifty; but whether there were any at other beaches on the coast I could not learn. They are so surrounded, with mountains, that these people have no communication with them, if there are.

I had now lived about six weeks with these wretched mortals, and had learned a great many words of their language. It may be easily imagined, that I did not pass my time so agreeably among them, as not to frequently turn in my thoughts how to get out of their country. But great difficulties attended every resolution I could take. The idea of returning to the land from whence I came, could never get the least entrance; there was then no other alternative, but to cross the mountains, or coast along page 70in the canoe, till some flat country appeared, which might promise inhabitants, and a supply of provisions. The simple inhabitants could give me no information with respect to either. If I crossed the mountains, being entirely ignorant of their extent, what danger might I run for want of provisions and water? and if on the other hand, my determination was for the coasting voyage, equal danger of the above wants presented themselves; especially as I had observed in coming over the strait, that the coast on each hand continued mountainous as far as I could see. The chance of meeting with barbarous inhabitants, I thought was equal either way, and must be risked.

At last I came to a resolution of crossing the mountains; and page 71could think of no other provisions to carry with me, but fish dried in the sun, which I immediately set about preparing. My walks for some days before I set out, were up different parts of the mountains, to reconnoitre the properest course to be taken. When my friends were informed of my resolution, they shewed as much concern for losing me, as their sluggish dispositions were capable of; and when I took leave of them, almost the whole shed tears, and wished me success.

I set out then on this arduous undertaking on the 28th of February, 1774, and recommending myself to the protection of a kind providence, began slowly to ascend the mountain; knowing that the way to hold out long in any undertaking, was to page 72pursue it with steadiness and moderation; the weather was fine, and my spirits good. For three hours I laboured up the first mountain, and after taking breath a little, and viewing the still higher ones before me, began to descend, and continued so doing for two hours more. At the bottom of this vale appeared a stream of running water, which tempted me to stop there to recruit my strength with rest, and such refreshment as my fish and the stream afforded. Here I loaded my piece with small shot, believing there was nothing to fear from enemies of any kind; and that I might possibly meet with growse or some other game, which would be a great regale.

I now pursued my journey, and laboured up a higher mountain than page 73the former, but without seeing either bird or beast; at the top there was a sensible alteration in the air, which was become much colder, tho' the wind had not changed. I could here see before me mountains piled on mountains, and the hoary heads of the highest, covered with eternal snow, which almost staggered my resolution.

But taking courage, I descended to another vale of small depth, for an hour brought me to its bottom; here I again found water, and being very much fatigued, resolved to take up my quarters there for the night. Heath for my bed, was found in plenty, the same was my covering, and kept me tolerably warm in those bleak regions; fatigue lulled me to balmy rest, where I slept as soundly, page 74as in the best chamber in England on a bed of down. Next morning much refreshed, I renewed my labours, which seemed to have no end; and the cold began to be very intense. This day I had the luck to shoot a brace of growse, which made my dinner; and delicious morsels they were. I fortunately found a lake of fresh water on the very summit of a mountain, or I should have been entirely destitute; for the higher the mountains, the vales became more and more shallow. The second night was passed more disagreeably than the former, owing to the cold; nor could I make myself comfortable, with all the heath I spread on me and around my bed.

I now approached the snowy region, and was not without appre-page 75hensions from the danger of passing it; but considering with myself that this danger overcome, the worst would certainly be past, and I should begin to descend on the other side; my resolution was strengthened, and I advanced boldly to the undertaking. The snow was hard enough to bear my weight, and for some time I made a considerable progress towards the summit; the walking briskly keeping me warm: but to my great grief, a shower of snow came on, at first gently and in small drops; but afterwards in large flakes and attended with wind. While the snow shower continued moderate, I pushed on, and believed myself at the very top of the mountain; but when it became heavy, the air was so filled with it, and the atmosphere so cloudy, page 76that I durst not venture to stir a step farther, for fear of losing my way, or tumbling down some precipice. Keeping then nearly in the same spot, I walked backwards and forwards to keep myself warm, but with very melancholy reflections; for should it continue till night, my fate was inevitable. In about an hour and a half however, it gave over snowing to my great joy; the sky cleared up, and I was entertained with the sight (tho' at a considerable distance), of a country well wooded and watered, which promised better days I got clear of the snowy part of the mountain on the opposite side before night, and cook up my quarters in the best manner I could. Game was more plentiful on this side, than the other; for besides the species of growse I had page 77killed before; there were some black cocks, and a few hares. The cold decreased as I got nearer the flat country, and in two days I reached it, to my great satisfaction.