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Chap. VIII.

The Commanders, Bonaris, and myself, walked one day to the immense Hall, where the courts of justice are held. The courts were then sitting, and the crouds in all of them very great. We conversed with several people concerning the judges, who all agreed in praising their impartiality and justice; and many of them for their great abilities; espe-page 321cially one of the chiefs, who was said to be a prodigy of knowledge and eloquence. Bonaris met an able counsellor of his acquaintance, whom he engaged to dine with us after the courts were up, at a house of entertainment hard by. He came according to his promise, and proved a frank agreeable companion. After dinner, when we were drinking a moderate glass, Mocophage (commander of one of the frigates), first making an apology for the liberty he was going to take, asked the counsellor in what compass the Luxo-voluptan laws might be contained. In about a hundred volumes in folio, replied he: Good God! cried the other, how is it possible ever to learn them all? They never are, returned the counsellor; he who knows a third page 322part of them is very deep. Give me leave to trouble you with another question, said the commander. How long are your law suits permitted to last? Sometimes seven years, and at others twenty or thirty, answered the lawyer.——And what is the reason of such delays?——The glorious obscurity of the law, replied he laughing. ——In my opinion you had better be without laws altogether:——Yes, said he; the nation had, but not the lawyers. This dialogue diverted us.—— When Mocophage, in a serious but polite manner, said, there must be great faults somewhere; and in his opinion, if the lawyers honestly told their clients that they had not right on their side, they certainly would not be mad enough to persist in their suit, at a great expence, and often to page 323their utter ruin. In answer to which, the counsellor said, it was not always an easy matter to determine in what light things would appear to a judge, and still more so to a jury; besides they were seldom consulted on the merits, and very often did not read their briefs till they came into court. ——And what is the reason of that? ——Want of time, returned he.—— Your attornies must then be very faulty. ——That is the general opinion, but we cannot help that. Why are not they punished, said the Bon-hommican? ——Because they take care not to expose themselves to it. But to be serious, continued the counsellor, our laws are certainly become a great nuisance, and want reformation; but it is so arduous an undertaking, that it is not probable any page 324King or Ministry will venture on it, unlessobliged by some fatal necessity. The Bonhommican laws were mentioned to shew the possibility of it; to which the counsellor answered,—That they were a virtuous people, who could do better without laws in any form whatsoever, than the Luxo-voluptans could with laws made on purpose for them by the deity, and sent to them from the divine abodes. He added, that if their government should have the misfortune to become despotic, a reformation might be easier brought about; but that the remedy would be worse than the disease.

The conversation then turned on debtors, and it was generally allowed, that though in justice debts ought to page 325be paid, if there was wherewithall; yet where there was not, imprisonment was depriving the creditors of any chance in future, and when they had not a proper maintenance, they had better be put to death at once. The counsellor acknowledged that the allowance in their prisons was but a meer trifle, and not always paid. What number of debtors, said Moraveres, may be in the prisons of Mirovolante? He replied, Perhaps ten or twelve thousand, but that he could not say how many with any exactness. Good God! exclaimed the other, how shocking to humanity that is! if the creditors were obliged to maintain them in a decent manner, they would not be so ready to confine their persons. In Ludorow, where that is done, there is not perhaps above one for page 326each of your thousands, but the different sizes of the cities and manners of the people must also be taken into the account. The lawyer concluded the subject with saying, that there was one advantage in making arrests for debt easily obtainable; that it facilitated credit. From debtors, it was a natural enough transition to criminals, and many questions were asked of our communicative lawyer, concerning criminal laws and punishments; which after he had answered in the most explicit manner, he told us there was to be a very curious trial in two days, at the Criminal Court of a woman called Rudera, for forgery. That the affair had made a great noise for some months, two of her accomplices being at that time under sentence of death. He was intreated page 327to give us a history of the affair, which he did in the following manner.

"This Rudera has a husband alive, whom she has ruined by her extravagance, has left for some years, and lived with several other men. The last of whom, and a friend of his, she was concerned with, in forging bonds for considerable sums of money. That friend was detected in endeavouring to raise money on one of them, and, to excuse himself, said, he got it from her; she being sent for, acknowledged herself guilty; but they were not then taken up. Afterwards when they were, she had art enough to get herself admitted as evidence for the king. But the principal prosecutor, upon examining page 328into the affair, finding that she was the chief contriver and perpetrator of the forgeries, and that he had proof enough against the others without her evidence, prosecuted her also. Her plea was, that having been admitted king's evidence, she was not liable to be tried. It was argued by counsel before the principal court, and given against her; because on her examination when admitted evidence for the King, she had not made a full discovery.

"When she came to her trial some months ago, she made use of the same plea, and one of her judges had a scruple in his mind upon the legality or it. That occasioned the trial's being put off, and the point of law's being referred to the twelve judges, who have again given it page 329against her; and though nobody doubts of her guilt, yet, as she had been admitted an evidence, a kind of compassion has arose in the minds of men, as is common in this country, on the least appearance of hardship or oppression. And though in some countries, torture is made use of to make criminals confess their crimes, the laws are so favourable in this, that an extrajudicial confession does not operate against them.

As we declared our resolution of seeing this famous trial, he told us how we were to manage to get admittance, and advised us to be there early. We then parted, after having thanked him for his agreeable company, and very judicious communications.

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We did not fail being in court in proper time, and got places where we could both see and hear perfectly well. Rudera entered the august tribunal with great modesty, yet with a sort of dignity. She was dressed in an elegant simplicity, very proper for her situation. Her figure was genteel, but her face not remarkably handsome. The trial was long and solemn; during the whole of which, she behaved with so much propriety, composure, and seeming innocence, that all eyes were upon her, all wishes for her acquittal. I own honestly my being carried away with the torrent, but thought I perceived by the looks of my friends, that they were not equally prejudiced in her favour. She did not trust entirely to her counsel in cross-examining the page 331witnesses, but was every now and then handing little billets to them with her instructions. When it came to her defence, she made a short, but very proper speech, with much grace and modesty. The judges gave an impartial charge to the jury, explaining to them the laws in these cases; and according as the proofs appeared to them, directing what their verdict should be. The jury were inclosed, and every one waited with anxiety and impatience for the event. But when she was pronounced Not guilty, there were the loudest, and most indecent shouts of applause, that perhaps ever were heard in a court of justice.

We got out as soon as the croud would permit us, and in our way page 332home, I imagined my friends were little satisfied with what they had been witnesses to. I was not mistaken; for when the Merchants asked their opinions of what had passed, they declared they had never seen so utter a depravation, and even triumph over the moral sense as in the prisoner; nor such a total want of it, joined to a false pity and misplaced generosity, as in the spectators. Not, said they, that we had any wishes for her condemnation, let the laws take their course; but for so crouded a court to seem unanimously solicitous for the acquittal of a person, of whose guilt they had not the least doubt; seemed to them so great an encouragement to commit crimes, that they were not surprised to find them so common in Miro-volante.

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This trial was at what they call Juasforreris or gaol-delivery, which is held in this capital every six weeks. We were told when it was over, that at this sessions one hundred prisoners were tried; thirty of whom were condemned to suffer death, fifty to row in the gallies, and the rest were either whipped, branded, or acquitted. Such executions are not uncommon in this capital, they string up men with as little ceremony as a fish-woman does pilchards; neither the sufferers nor spectators seeming to give themselves much concern about it.

The crimes which were most general, were highway robberies, housebreakings, forgeries, thefts and frauds. Few murders or rapes were found in their sessions paper.

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Having made several excursions to different parts of this country, seen the greatest part of the metropolis, and obtained information concerning their military and naval establishments, manufactures, &c. &c. I shall now give a short account of them.

The soil in general is good, highly cultivated, and the country almost every where inclosed; there are some large districts however, that are mountainous and barren, especially the remote parts to the southward. The inhabitants of that country are poor when compared with the others; but the keen air of their mountains sharpens their wits, and many of them migrate northward to better their fortunes in a warmer soil, in which they some-page 335times succeed; for the northern inhabitants are a good-natured people, and receive with open arms those who readily fall in with their manners. But sometimes they find these friends a little too far south for them.

Navigable canals are numerous, and extremely beneficial to trade; the excellent roads also, which have been made within half a century at an immense expence (by a heavy tax laid on carriages and horses which pass over them), concur to the same good end; as well as to the ease and conveniency of travellers. They actually very much approximate places to one another, and a journey which could not formerly be made under a fortnight, with great trouble and fatigue (the persons making their page 336wills before they set out), is now performed with ease and pleasure in two or three days. The only inconvenience to be feared from this luxurious way of travelling (for the Inns are equally good with the roads) is, that as all ranks of people are now conveyed on carriages of one fort or other, inside or outside; their bodies will be so enervated, that in time they may become incapable of supporting the hardships and fatigues of war. For I have heard that the fox-hunters, who used to be the hardiest riders in the kingdom, go now to the field in post chaises (if their sport lies at any distance from home), mount their horses there, and return in the same vehicle, or a hired one, if the chase carries them to a great distance from it.

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Miro-volante consists of two Cities, and for its size might very well make ten very considerable ones. It is twenty-four miles in circuit, and contains above a million of inhabitants. There are above twenty large squares, but such of them as have statues, are far from being embellished by them. Three stone bridges, two of which are modern, and noble pieces of architecture; the third antient (though lately vamped up at nearly as much expence as would have rebuilt it), a structure of an ignorant age, the piers being built on piles which rise up above low water mark. The Arches are small, irregular, and barbarous; and the stream still more streightened by starlings filled with large stones placed round the bottoms of the peers, to prevent their being page 338undermined; so that many lives are lost yearly, in passing under it from the great fall. It is, in brief, offensive to the eye, hurtful to Navigation, and destructive of the human race. The Temples are numerous and magnificent, one of which, for greatness and beauty, might vie with any in the world. This city is of late well paved at the expence of two millions of gorgerines, and is lighted by 100,000 globular lamps. But what surprises one most with respect to this Capital is, that they are still extending it on all sides; go where you will on the out-skirts, there is nothing to be seen but new buildings; without any ones being able to conceive where any additional inhabitants are to come from. But the builders (from experience) depend on the restless fickleness of the Luxo-page 339voluptans; well knowing that any new fashioned manner of fitting them up; such as a little Painting, or some plaster figures on the ceiling or walls of the rooms (though the houses in general are not so convenient), will certainly draw the inhabitants to them. So that it is probable, in a few years, more than one-third of the houses will be left uninhabited. The Palace, which struck me most from the harbour at our first arrival, on account of its grandeur and magnificence, was originally begun for a royal one, and after being much enlarged, was converted into an Hospital for superannuated seamen. There is another very fine one, but much inferior to the abovementioned, in possession of the invalids of the land service. I have asked page 340several of the old men at both Palaces, if they were not very happy to pass the remainder of their days in such superb structures. Their answer constantly was, that they would willingly give up all the grandeur of their habitations, for half a penuris a day additional allowance, to buy them a weed resembling our tobacco.

Several other Hospitals for variety of purposes, are likewise unnecessarily ornamented. The Charity of the Luxo-voluptans is very ostentatious. But one of the oldest and meanest public buildings in this great Metropolis is the Royal Palace, which is indeed utterly unworthy of its great inhabitant, and of the Empire. But the Cortesinas will not let themselves con-page 341ceive, that their Monarch can be capable of the same weakness with his subjects, of liking a new house better than an old one.

This kingdom has now a very numerous body of troops in Armoseria, but in time of pectce it is customary for them to keep up a standing army of 20,000 infantry and 8,000 cavalry; besides 6,000 guards, who are always quartered in the capital. Their troops make a good appearance, and are said always to ctight well; though they are generally the most debauched, profligate fellows in the kingdom.

They have at present a very formidable fleet in commission, consisting of about thirty ships of the line page 342of battle, and above one hundred frigates. They are by far the most potent maritime power in that part of the globe; but, on inspecting their ships, I did not find them much superior to the Bonhommicans, either in ship-building, the art of navigation, or in the construction of their fire-arms. It is on very great emergencies indeed, that they are ever obliged to make use of the odious measure of pressing seamen, to man their fleets. The operation of two very simple laws, with a moderate bounty, generally answer that end. The first law is, that if any owners of Merchant ships give more wages to their seamen, than what is half an ecuris per month, under the King's pay (which is something higher than page 343the British), the ship and cargo are forfeited, half to go to the informer. By this law, the freight of goods is also kept moderate in time of war, by preventing the rise of seamen's wages in the Merchant service. The second is, that every seaman has a right to demand his discharge at the end of two years; but if he happens to be abroad, and it would be a detriment to the service to part with him, he is intitled for the first six months, to half an ecuris per month additional; for the second six months an ecuris per month, for the third three half ecuris, and so on. Their sailors are reckoned brave, but unthinking like our English Tars.

Though the Luxo-voluptans have got very little the start of the Bonhommicans in naval arts, they cer-page 344tainly far excel them in many of their manufactures and mechanical ones. Their silks, velvets, and gold and silver stuffs are beautiful, and sumptuous; and their household furniture in a grand taste and well executed. This gives the court of Mirovolante, a much gawdier appearance than that of Ludorow, but without half its dignity.

It is impossible to give a description of the dress worn by people of fashion and their imitators, as it changes its appearance almost as often, though not with the same regularity, as the moon does hers: it being the chief study of the Taylors, Mantua-makers, and Milleners, &c. in greatest reputation (as well as of the Beaux, Belles, and Alæ-putas), to page 345invent new modes of it, besides what they copy from the Faramondians. This is said to be greatly advantageous to trade, and for the same specious reason, the time for wearing mourning for deceased relations is indecently shortened; but they (and others of inferior rank) never fail to put it on for the death of any foreign Prince, whose name perhaps they never before heard of, if it is to be wore only for a week.

I never heard that any of the richest Nomrihas (though some have 50,000 gorgerines of yearly rent) were above receiving the salaries of their offices; they have no notion of serving either King or Country gratis, or perhaps are afraid of affronting them by a refusal.

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As to the language of this nation, it is a medium betwixt the softness of the Auditantine, and roughness of the Bonhommican. It is smooth enough to be set to music, and yet both nervous and copious.

It has been already said, that the Seraphite religion is professed here, as well as in Bonhommica; the only difference being, that a Hierarchy is established in this kingdom, and consequently the priests enjoy a considerable share of power and wealth. Their Temples also are more magnificent, and more ornamented; but without any thing tending to idolatry.

Our worthy commanders constantly went to one Temple or other, on the days appointed for public worship; page 347and they used often with great concern, to lament the general neglect of religion in this country; very few attending on these occasions, and those who did, with great levity and unconcern.

But what was still more melancholy, the priests themselves did not shew much fervour or piety, when exercising their sacred functions; but hastened them over as a task which must be gone through.

This became the subject of conversation one evening, when Moraveres addressing himself to Bonaris, said, he imagined their priests thought more of obtaining good livings and dignities, than of serving the Deity as they ought, He was sorry to say, Bonaris replied, that it was too true, page 348but they were but men; and it was natural to wish, and endeavour to be in easy circumstances; nor did he see how it could be prevented,——By putting a check, returned the other, to the lust of riches and power, a the first setting out, as is done in Bonhommica. They would be then obliged to turn their ambition to the gaining of respect from their virtue and good life; since they could not have it from their wealth and dignity. ——But, rejoined Bonaris, would not that check the praise-worthy emulation of distinguishing themselves? and (as men enter into the priesthood for a livelihood, as they do into other professions) prevent those of spirit and genius from engaging in it.—— I do not think that men of spirit and genius make the best priests, said page 349Moraveres, but am rather of the contrary opinion. As to the checking of emulation, I grant that preferment is a spur to the exertion of talents, which otherwise might never have been known. But on the other hand, when a man has once got at his ease, he grows lazy, and his time is more agreeably employed in enjoying the goods of fortune, than in hard study. In our country, continued he, the priests are allowed a decent competency from the state; putting them much above contempt, but by no means in affluence. Therefore, though by writing they can do themselves no service in the way of preferment, yet the Press may afford them some assistance to help their income; and increase at the same time their reputation. Moraveres being here silent, page 350a pause ensued for some little time; when Bonaris resuming the discourse, said to Moraveres, But perhaps you approve of our Devotionalists, who, though professing themselves of the established religion, pretend to an extraordinary piety; who neglect their duty to themselves, their families, and to society, to run about after religious exercises; and are either puffed up with an impious assurance, of being in favour with the Deity, or depressed with terrors of having offended him. Moraveres replied, That curiosity had led him to attend their meetings, and though he sincerely pitied them, he was far from approving the strange opinions they held, concerning, the attributes of the Deity, of grace being all-sufficient without good works; and that page 351every one who did not think as they do, was in a state of reprobation, with other doctrines which were subversive of morality and true religion. That he believed their Teachers were either artful hypocrites, or silly enthusiasts; the former deserving punishment, and the latter consinement in a mad-house. Bonaris declared, he intirely agreed with him in his opinion of them; but, said he, let us return to our own Priests, who I should be happy to defend, or at least offer something in extenuation of their conduct; and I am apt to believe, that it is not so much the church government, that makes the priests of one nation, more exemplary than that of another, as the manners of the people amongst whom they live; and the education they receive page 352in common with others, in their infancy. For, continued he, how can a Bonhommican make a bad priest, who does every thing conscientiously? But, pursued he, we must mend our manners in general, to procure the particular reformation we have been talking of; and I am afraid there is little probability of that happening, without some humiliating reverse of fortune, Education might do much, if children at the same time could be preserved from the bad examples of all about them. But we go on in the old way, of teaching them nothing but two dead languages all the early part of their lives, taking little care of cultivating the moral sense, and yet are surprised that our people are not as virtuous as yours.

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The Bonhommicans all agreed, that if their favourite sense was not early rooted, and thoroughly fortified, all the care in the world afterwards, would have little effect; for all mankind had the seeds of it in their bosoms, though it was only in theirs, and in those of a few individuals of other nations, that its fruit grew up to maturity. Your universities, said they, may be better than ours with respect to the sciences, and what is called learning in general, but they will be able to do little in morality.

As to our Colleges, answered Bonaris, they have produced very great men, and there are still some of considerable learning amongst them, but at present none very remarkable. page 354The professorships are too well endowed to expect any considerable exertions from that quarter, and indeed scarcely one of them gives a lecture. The education of youth is then intrusted to Tutors, who carry them through all the different branches of learning. Judge you, continued he, whether one man can be capable of doing it as it ought to be. In other respects the discipline is so loose, that a young fellow may there indulge himself in debauchery with great security, if he is not guilty of any very open breach of decorum. And yet, said Mocophage, learning in general, the sciences and arts, are at present in high reputation amongst you? They are so, rejoined Bonaris, and very justly; but not owing so so much to the Universities, as to some page 355other Societies, and the application of private men. The Royal Scientifical Club has promoted most of them in a very high degree, and still keeps up to the spirit and vigour of its institution. Other private ones, on similar, or different plans, both in the capital and other principal cities of the Empire, have also done their part. And the royal school of arts lately instituted, promises fair to raise Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture, to a very high degree of perfection.

You see, my friends, continued he, I endeavour to be as impartial as possible; the defects in our manners are too glaring, not to be easily seen by one who searches after truth.

Upon this I observed to him, That the many Hospitals which had been page 356erected in Miro-volante within half a century past, seemed to demonstrate, that a laudable charity still existed in the breasts of his countrymen in general; and that (according to my religion) charity covered a multitude of sins. He replied, That there had indeed been a number of new erected Hospitals; but the motives on which the erectors proceeded, made the merit of such actions. That sometimes it was difficult to penetrate into the recesses of the human heart, and at others easy enough. One or two, which had been built and endowed by particular persons, seemed plainly with an intention to raise a name; as mean and despicable a piece of vanity as any the human mind is subject to, and where they have valuable relations, far from praise-page 357worthy. As to those, continued he, which have been built and supported by subscription, I know for a certainty, that the projectors of many of them had selfish views; and it is not improbable, but the contributors acted more, from an easiness of temper, ostentation, the convenience of sending their servants to them, or some other motive, than from true benevolence of heart.

The conversation now turned to variety of subjects; when, after sometime, Moraveres addressing himself to Bonaris, said, The Cortesinas is now broke up, and all your Nomras and Comras gone into the country; be so obliging to let me know how both sexes pass their time in it? Do they reside at their country-seats, and keep page 358hospitality, as ours do at that season? Bonaris smiled and answered, Very, very few I assure you: they have got such a habit of dissipation and idleness, that they would grow low-spirited, if left in the country with only their friends about them. But there are, continued he, about twenty spaws in different parts of the kingdom, and as many sea-bathing places upon the coast, which are all full of company, not one in twenty of whom go for their healths; every one of these places has a ball-room or two, where they play cards from morning till night, and dance as often as they chuse. Besides those, there are horse races once every summer (and oftener in some) in almost every town in the kingdom; at which there are cock-fightings for the men, and page 359balls for the women. You see, pursued he, that by running from spaw to bathing-place, from bathing place to horse-race, and from horse-race to some spaw or bathing-place again, they may contrive to fill up their time tolerably well: and such is their love of change, that they even grow weary of the sameness of this world, and often send themselves out of it with a halter or a dose of poison.

These horse-races, continued he, are the constant causes of excessive gaming; and are particularly destructive to those who themselves keep running horses, from their immense expence.

Notwithstanding the bad effects of them in this country, according to our friend's account, I own (as a page 360Yorkshireman), that I had a very great partiality for that amusement, and had for some time resolved to see the first that happened at a reasonable distance from town, before we sailed; the time for which was fast approaching.

The winter Theatres were shut up soon after our arrival, and a summer one opened, which was also Royal. Aristopharis was the patentee of it; a very extraordinary character! he had wrote a great number of comedies, full of wit and humour; but as they were all on temporary subjeccts, they probably will not long survive him, unless he or somebody else writes a very full commentary on his works. In the mean time they answered his purpose of bringing him full houses.

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None but his own pieces are almost ever performed at his house. He is also an excellent companion, and much sought after by the Nomras and men of wit; giving in his turn, elegant and expensive entertainments. He has spent two or three fortunes, besides the immense sums he has raised on the public; being in that respect a perfect contrast to Garrimond.

We sometimes made parties to go to that Theatre, and when we could, carried some of the Bonhommican ladies of the factory with us; but it was not often we could prevail with them, as they still retained their own country manners; having (to comply with the fashion only) got small artificial head-wings. Aristo-page 362pharis always played the principal characters in his own pieces, and frequently mimicked the person and manner of the culprit intended to be exposed to public ridicule, in so excellent a manner, that the whole audience were kept in a continual roar.

In short, this theatre might be called by way of excellence, the laughing theatre; there was no forbearing. I do not believe a person brought directly from the fabled cave of Trophonius could have resisted.

We had not yet been at Rondelleva or Fairy-hall, but now made parties for both; not in the same evening as many people do; we husbanded page 363our amusements better than that came to. With much persuasion some of our ladies accompanied us to the former, but nothing could draw them to the latter. Rondelleva is a vast rotund (in size far exceeding the Theo-pan), about a mile from town. It really struck us very much at our first entrance. The company is as great a mixture as can well be imagined; from the Prince and Princess of the blood royal, to any body who can appear in a decent dress, and pay half an ecuris for entrance. It may properly be called an immense Coffee-house for both sexes. Every thing is however decent at this place, even the Alæ-putas conceal their wings as much as they possibly can. There is always a band of music, and some fingers; but no body seemed page 364to mind them. The place was exceedingly crouded that night, and however agreeable it may be at other times, it certainly was much the reverse on this occasion.

The entertainment at this place, is to walk round the room, and round the room, like a horse in a mill. You see but half the company, for you must still follow your leaders; (this is occasioned by a large support to the roof in the center of the room, in which there is a fire in cold weather); should any number pretend to go the opposite way, there would be a full stop. The only method of seeing the whole, is to take possession of a box (if you can, for on these crouded nights there are great demands for them); sit down in it, and page 365see all the company pass you at your ease. You have Tea and Coffee for your half ecuris if you chuse it.

On crouded nights it is very difficult to get to your carriages; so much so, that company are often kept till three or four in the morning solely on that account. To prevent which, and our curiosity being satisfied, we made our retreat a little after eleven, and happily got safe home.

We were all men in the Fairy-hall party, and certainly it is well named; for every thing looks like Fairy-land or enchantment. A large garden well laid out, interspersed with elegant buildings; in the midst of which, is one for a band of music and good voices. Statues, Paintings, Cascades page 366strike your eyes, whatever side you turn to. The whole illuminated with some thousands of globular lamps, which make it almost as light as day. What added much to the oddity of the scene (though it was a great nuisance), was the Alæ-putas flying about in great numbers, and perching upon the trees in a ridiculous manner; calling to the men as they walked past, and inviting them up to them. You pay but a scheris entrance, but the proprietor has great profit on his meat and wine, as it is customary to sup here. We were resolved to see the whole of the place, and went into a box. The prices of every thing are fixed; so much for a chicken, so much for a slice of beef, &c. &c. &c. The provisions, though dear, were good page 367of their kind; but the high priced wines were execrable. You sit in open boxes, exposed to the ribaldry of the Alæ-putas and drunken apprentices; who, after ten o'clock, became very noisy and quarrelsome. They soon became too much so, for us to have any satisfaction in a longer stay; we therefore paid our bill and went home, wishing we had done it sooner.

I have already mentioned my predilection for a horse-race, luckily those of Epicem (a small town, fifteen miles from the capital) were advertised; and as none of the commanders had ever seen one, they were the more easily persuaded to go one of the days. Fortunately the weather was favourable, and brought a vast page 368deal of company on the downs. They were of all sorts; a great number of handsome carriages filled with Comras and Comrinas; some Nomras and Nomrinas; crouds of horsemen of all ranks; and not a few Alæ-putas in high life, in their carrs and six.

The running horses seemed not inferior to ours in England; they were indeed beautiful creatures, and it warmed my heart to look at them.

They started, and every body (especially those who betted) were in an agitation of spirits; galloping about, and offering betts, at every seeming alteration in their progress.

The carrs and six attended them in the air, which had a beautiful effect. At last the push was made, page 369the horses strained everynerve, and the Riders spared neither whip nor spur to urge them on. Of the four that run, two kept so near a-breast, it could not be distingushed which was foremost; then the noise was loud, and betts altered every moment, in favour now of one, now, of another; at last they reached the winning post, and by the exertion of the rider one of them gave a spring forward, and won by half a neck. Nothing but shouting and hollowing was then to be heard; some glorying in their judgment, others cursing their ill-luck, and accusing the losing Rider of being bribed.

I shall not tire my reader with a description of the other heats; suffice it to say, that the sport was as fine page 370as ever I saw in England. We had also a Chase which very much diverted the company, and was quite unexpected. One of the Carr-born Goddesses, had very wisely trained six Falcons for her equipage, and came with them to the ground that day, for the first time of trying them in public. Another was drawn by six beautiful Pigeons, which the Falcons unluckily got a view of; away they flew after them, being very little under command of their Charioteer. The Pigeons exerted themselves with all their strength to escape their enemy, nor did their Goddess restrain them. The efforts on both sides were great, and the chase long, sometimes in one direction, and sometimes in another; at last, from the, great agitation, both the Goddesses page 371were thrown from their Carrs, the reins and harness were broke, and the poor Pigeons devoured. To put my reader out of pain for the Goddesses, I have the pleasure to assure him they got no hurt, as their large spreading wings supported them in the air and broke the fall. We returned to town very well satisfied with our diversion, and had the luck to escape being robbed.