“The sundry contemplation of my travels.”—Shakespeare

As the rail trip to Frankton Junction per medium of the comfortable Main Trunk Expresses is well known to most readers of the Magazine, I shall not cover that familiar ground in this article. By arranging to arrive at Frankton early in the morning the traveller, after an appetising breakfast in the well-equipped and courteously staffed railway refreshment room, has a choice of continuing his trip by the first train to Rotorua, or of visiting the adjacent town of Hamilton, and joining a later train, at midday, for the thermal district. The writer and party chose the first alternative, and arrived in Rotorua in time for lunch. A few days spent in Rotorua can be both interesting and healthful, but our thoughts were centred this time upon the overland trip to Napier, hitherto a terra incognito.

To Karaka Railway Station, Gisborne Section.

Lake Country.

Leaving Rotorua about 9 a.m. the traveller skirts the shore of Lake Rotorua for some distance, and then, at the village of Te Ngae turns off to the right along the Whakatane road. Occasional steam clouds in nearby paddocks give evidence of thermal activity. Presently Lake Rotoiti appears, and one of the pleasantest stretches of the journey lies between this lake and two others, Lake Rotoehu and Lake Rotoma. For miles the narrow road winds through magnificent bush. (The authorities concerned deserve the greatest thanks for the preservation of this beautiful piece of bush.) In Maori history it is known as Hongi's Track. In the not very dim past Hongi Hika, the Ngapuhi warrior, and his war party, hauled their canoes from Maketu (on the shores of the Bay of Plenty) through this bush, and on to Lake Rotorua, where the natives of the district were severely chastised for their temerity in deriding Hongi on a former visit. A short stay at Rotoma for morning tea and then off over hill and down dale to the Rangitaiki Plains and Te Teko. Te Teko was a military post during the wars of 1865. (In fact all this district and away to Opotiki saw stirring episodes during those troublous years.) The road, quite level, turns away to the left and soon the tall chimney of the Whakatane Freezing Works comes into view, after which the traveller finds himself passing through the residential portion of Whakatane.

Whakatane.

The residential part of Whakatane is quite distinct from the business part of the town, which lies a little further on, and is situated near the mouth of the Whakatane River. As one enters the shopping area one's attention is arrested by a high rock. This is known as Pohaturoa (big rock) and is famed in Maori history. Here came the ancient tohunga to cast his spells, and the remains of the rangatiras of the tribe reposed here until the time arrived for their final journey to some secret resting place. In a small cave the warriors reclined while the ancient art of moko, or tatoo, was performed. On the hills at the back of the town are well preserved remains of ancient forts. In Whakatane there are mines of interesting Maori history which well repays a little investigation. The Maori meeting-house, with its name “Wairaka” and its unique carving, to say nothing of the extremely interesting painting of that old Ngatiawa tohunga Te Tahi-o-te-Rangi, and his adventure on White Island, brim over with ancient lore. Wairaka was the name of the ancient chieftainess who gave the name by which the present township is known. Jumping into the water from the first canoe as it landed amid the breakers, she called out in an endeavour to hearten the fearful occupants of the canoe, “Kia whakatane ake ahau” (I will become a man). At Whakatane very page 41 comfortable accommodation can be obtained. From the hotel balcony one can look across the water and see Whale Island (Motutahora), and farther out still, the ever-steaming White Island (Waikaari) with its umbrella-like cloud of sulphur smoke and steam.

Opotiki and Its Associations.

Immediately upon leaving Whakatane the road turns inland. A prominent landmark is the cone-shaped extinct volcano, Mt. Edgecumbe, which dominates the landscape. Nine miles along a good road and we run into Taneatua. This is the present terminus of the Bay of Plenty railway.

Continuing on from Taneatua the road traverses the Waimana Gorge. Before reaching Opotiki, a glimpse of the sea is seen at Kutarere, on the shores of Ohiwa harbour. Further on a pretty stretch of road opens up, which is close to, and parallel with, the sea beach. On the seaward side an avenue of pohutakawa trees adds beauty to the scene—a scene which would be considerably enhanced when the trees are covered with the bright crimson flowers which have caused the pohutakawa to be called the New Zealand Christmas tree. The Waioeka River, on the outskirts of Opotiki, is crossed by a massive ferro-concrete bridge. A few minutes later we draw up at our hotel and are conducted to comfortable quarters to rid ourselves of the dust of travel.

The East Coast Railway.
The site of the Matahoura Viaduct showing the commencement of the staging and the completion of one of the big concrete pillars—seen high up on the left the picture.

Just across the street is one of the most historical buildings in all New Zealand. I refer to the Anglican Church of St. Stephen the Martyr. The Church is indelibly associated with the name of the Rev. C. S. Volkner, a missionary who laboured amongst the local Maoris for a number of years. In 1860 he helped to build the church with timber pitsawn in the adjacent bush. During the Hauhau rebellion of 1865 Opotiki was visited by Hauhau emissaries who, with a well-armed following, completely overawed the local natives. The Rev. Volkner was taken prisoner and locked up for several days. He was then escorted to the church grounds and hanged on a willow tree. Frightful orgies on the part of the Hauhaus followed, the idea being to alienate the sympathies of the Christian converts. Native friends gathered the remains of this first pakeha martyr and reverently interred them just outside the church. Some years after a memorial transept, enclosing the hallowed grave of its first minister, was added to the church. The church was re-consecrated and given the above mentioned name.

Considering its somewhat isolated position, Opotiki impresses the visitor as being very progressive. Many of its buildings would do credit to a much larger town. The sea beach is about 40 minutes' walk from the town.

The Motu Bush.

The most interesting portion of our trip, however, was yet to come. Departing from Opotiki just after dinner, we were charmed with scenes of varying interest. For the first eight miles we have the sea on our left, and then, turning inland, the small settlement of Toatoa is reached. The cheese factory here turns out about 50 tons of cheese per annum. Now the road commences to rise, and we are soon in the Motu Bush. The writer knows of no road which is such a test of good motor driving as the road through the Motu Bush. Of straight sections there are practically none. The steering wheel is in constant movement, first one way, and then the other. Passengers may admire and express pleasure at the vistas of bush, sky and mountain, but the driver must ever be on the alert. The road is narrow and demands care when care going in opposite directions desire to pass. From the top of the Meremere Hill, on clear days, Whale Island and the blue waters of the Bay of Plenty can be seen. The Motu road page 42 reaches an elevation of 2,370 feet above sea level. For practically the whole 50 miles the road follows the railway, and at Otoko it goes under a handsome steel latticework girder viaduct carrying the railway. Crossing the river at Waikohu the traveller is intrigued at the narrowness of the bridge, just wide enough to take an ordinary motor car and no more. In answer to a query, we were vouchsafed the explanation that the width of the bridge was restricted on purpose to prevent the passage of heavily laden wool wagons, the weight of which would seriously imperil the safety of the structure. A notice on a house we passed occasioned a smile. The notice read: “Afternoon tea, scones, cakes, lemons, onions,” truly an epicurean menu!

Gisborne.

The country on the outskirts of Gisborne, with its healthy looking stock and smiling farms, impresses the visitor. Given better facilities, such as only our railways can provide, the Gisborne district will progress by leaps and bounds. Many of the streets of Gisborne are named after British statesmen. The main thoroughfare is appropriately named after the Hon. W. E. Gladstone. For some years an electric tramway service (on the storage battery principle), has been in operation. Near the upper part of the town the rivers Taruheru and Waimata converge, and become the Turanganui River. The mouth has been dredged, and by the help of a retaining wall it is hoped to keep a deep water channel clear of silt, and enable coastal steamers of a fair tonnage to use the port. The present harbour improvements are of some magnitude.

A Tropic Scene.
(Photo, A. P. Godber.)
The Government Bath House at the Morere Hot Springs.

To the historian, the monument on the Kaiti Beach, marking the spot where the first European, Captain James Cook, landed on 8th October, 1769, is of special interest. Across the Bay, misnamed “Poverty Bay” by Cook, because he had difficulty in securing fresh provisions, lies Young Nick's Head, a further reminder of the famous navigator. Young Nick (or Nicholas) was the first member of Cook's crew to sight land.

The Morere Hot Springs.

The next place of interest visited was the Morere Hot Springs. The prosperous district of Matawhero is traversed shortly after leaving Gisborne. Looking at the trim farms one finds it hard to reconcile them with the dark days when Te Kooti stalked abroad, and where over 30 innocent victims fell before his renegade followers in what is now known as the Poverty Bay Massacre. Looking back from a bend in the road over the Wharerata Hill, Gisborne can be seen through the blue afternoon haze. The descent of the other side of the hill safely negotiated, we pull up at Morere. Its chief interest is the Government thermal springs. These are credited with great medicinal and healing properties. A comfortable hotel contributes to the comfort of the visitor. A visit to these springs is really worth while. The bathhouses are three in number and are situated in one of the loveliest gullies it has been my lot to see. Ferns of all kinds abound in richest profusion, the stately and tropical nikau predominating. The track to the bath houses is lit by electricity, and an obliging caretaker makes visitors welcome.

Towards Napier.

The following morning we set out on our way once more, this time for Napier. Dinner was partaken of at Wairoa, and our regret was that we had not more time to see the places of interest there. The business part of Wairoa faces the broad river of the same name. Twenty-five miles along the coast (northwards) is the deep water port of Waikokopu. Wairoa had high hopes of becoming a seaport and spent much money to bring it about, but to no purpose. The Public Works Department, page 43 therefore, made a branch railway along the beach to the nearest place where a harbour could be formed, with depth of water to suit ocean-going steamers. From Wairoa a road runs to Waikaremoana, a favourite tourist resort, and the site of a great hydro-electric scheme now under construction by the Public Works Department.

At a number of points the operations of railway builders indicated the route of the East Coast railway between Gisborne and Napier. Steam navvies were seen eating into cuttings, and busy locomotives with their rakes of small wagons deposited the spoil from the navvies into adjacent gullies. Much remains to be done, however, before the “iron horse” gallops between the two cities above mentioned. A stop is made at the small township of Waikare for afternoon tea, and then the last stage of our journey is attempted. For some distance the road skirts the shores of Lake Tutira. Mr. Guthrie Smith, the owner of the surrounding property, with the laudable desire to preserve our native birds, refuses to allow shooting of native game. He deserves much credit for his efforts in this direction. Soon the road approaches the sea coast, and away across the bay, in the golden sunlight of the afternoon, the city of Napier can be plainly seen in the distance. Passing through Petane (which is the Maori way of saying Bethany) the roadway improves and permits of smoother running.

One Of The Most Beautiful Drives In New Zealand.
The Opotiki-Gisborne Road through the Motu Bush.
(Photo, A. P. Godber.)

The railway extension northwards from Napier reaches as far as Eskdale, some twelve miles. The Public Works Department runs a construction train for several miles further on. These services are of benefit in bringing goods for the adjacent farmers.

The difference between car and train travelling is vividly in evidence as we take our seats for the short run to Hastings. True the service car attendants are courteous and polite, but no motor car runs as smoothly as the railway train, and we settle back comfortably in our seat and say: “Well, after all you can't beat the railways.”

(The journey by rail from Hastings to Wellington is too well known to readers of the Magazine for description of it here. The traveller, however, has the choice of two routes, one via the Wairarapa, Rimutaka Incline and the Hutt Valley, and the alternative route via the Manawatu Gorge and the Manawatu district to the Capital City.)

The Delights Of Travel.

“Though sluggards deem it but a foolish chase, And marvel men should quit their easy chair, The toilsome way, and long, long league to trace;

Oh! there is sweetness in the mountain air, And life, that bloated ease can never hope to share.”—Byron.